| Posted on Tuesday, 26 April 2011
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| 10 years of FMC Forrester Meinart Chenin Blanc - Vertical Tasting 2000-2009 |
Introduction
The French ampelographer Pierre Galet has suggested that Chenin Blanc originated in the Anjou wine region of France in the 9th century. From France the grape spread to South Africa where it was included among the selected vine cuttings sent to Commander Jan van Riebeeck in the Cape Colony by the Dutch East India Company three and half centuries ago.
The climate of a particular wine region will often dictate whether Chenin Blanc is produced in a predominately sweet or dry manner, while the vineyard soil type will significantly influence the overall style of the wine. For instance, heavy clay based soils, paired with the right climate, is good for the development of weighty, botrytized dessert wines that need times to age and mature. Predominately sandy-based soils tend to produce lighter styles of wine that mature more quickly. Chenin Blanc planted in soils with a high silex content will produce wines with distinctive minerally notes while limestone based soils will encourages wines with sharp acidity. In areas where schist is plentiful in the soil, Chenin Blanc grapes will generally ripen earlier than in vineyards with predominately clay based soils. Chenin Blanc’s high acidity means it can be used to make almost any type of imaginable wine from Méthode Cap Classique sparkling wines to well-balanced dessert wines. Don’t forget that Chenin Blanc could also produce very bland, neutral and pretty average wines if the vine's natural vigor is not controlled.
(Note: Wikipedia helped in writing this chapter)
The Forrester Meinart Chenin Blanc (FMC) Story
The FMC Chenin Blanc was produced from vines planted on predominantly sandstone soils which prompted winemakers to focus on searching a structure of the wine that will show minerality, complexity, finesse and ultimately balance. It is of note to mention that all FMC vintages contain certain amount of botrytis. Levels of RS (residual sugar) varied from 6.1 g/l in 2009 to 14 g/l in 2002. The FMC is off-dry white wine. Other defining principle was spontaneous or “wild” fermentation, which clearly represents an element of high-risk winemaking.
The maiden vintage of 2000 came as a third attempt to produce a great wine. Ken Forrester stated that a key moment was acceptance of Cape Winemakers Guild in 2000 of their maiden vintage (around 900 bottles) which sold at an average of R165 (or around US$25) per bottle on auction. To achieve such a price for Chenin Blanc was previously unthinkable. The following vintage, FMC 2001 was characterized with the addition of a smidgen of Sauvignon Blanc 2002 to the already barrel fermented Chenin Blanc and bottling the wine after 19 months in barrel in November 2002. The following three vintages (2002-2004) included continuation of creative winemaking where a dozen different components were turned around many times before the final assemblage was made. That included addition of 2% of Noble Late Harvest in 2002 vintage and 3% in 2004 vintage.
The FMC 2005 vintage was dark in colour due to botrytis. The bold decision was taken to add 20% of FMC 2006 to lower alcohol and lighten the wine, which was bottled in December 2006. The result was 5 stars received in the Platter guide, and creation of another principle: addition of a small portion of “fresh” FMC Chenin Blanc from the next vintage. Wine Spectator gave 92 points to FMC 2005. The FMC 2006 Chenin Blanc was bottled in June 2007, after 14 months in oak. Winemakers added 12% of FMC 2007 and less than 2% of Noble Late Harvest. FMC 2006 again received 5 stars in the Platter’s Guide and 93 points from the Wine Spectator.
The FMC 2007 was a product of distinctive vintage. The final assemblage took place in May 2008 and included 4% of FMC 2006 and 5% of FMC 2008 plus some Noble Late Harvest. The wine spent only 13 months in barrel. This wine again got 93 points from the Wine Spectator. The FMC 2008 was released in May 2009 with total production of 2400 x 6 cases while the FMC 2009 was kept in barrel for 20 months and final assemblage took place in November 2010, whereby 12% of FMC 2010 was included. Total production was almost 3000 x 6 cases as the harvest was the biggest ever totaling 20.9 tons.
Brief tasting notes and respective points for all 10 vintages of the FMC Chenin
FMC Chenin Blanc 2000, off-dry, great vintage, fresh, crisp, honey notes, marzipan, dry apricot, spicy oak, lingering aftertaste, truly shines 17/20 points
FMC Chenin Blanc 2001, off-dry, a subtle kiss of Sauvignon Blanc, bee wax, apple puree, notes of honey, awesome palate profile, 16.5/20 points
FMC Chenin Blanc 2002, off-dry, deep golden colour, great acidity, subtle kiss of noble late harvest, fresh, lingering aftertaste, 16.5/20 points
FMC Chenin Blanc 2003, off-dry, orange peel, honey, great oak integration, awesome acidity, very elegant & superbly balanced Chenin, 17+/20 points
FMC Chenin Blanc 2004, off-dry, a subtle sherry-like nose, dry apricots, truffles, great palate profile, crisp, fresh & inviting 17+/20 points
FMC Chenin Blanc 2005, off-dry, gentle floral perfumes, honeycomb, kiss of noble late harvest, good acidity, long finish, 16+/20 points
FMC Chenin Blanc 2006, off-dry, a touch of minerality, honey, baked ripe apples & pears, hints of rose petals, fantastic acidity, 17+/20 points
FMC Chenin Blanc 2007, off-dry, orange peel, honey, quince, honeycomb follow through on the palate/divine palate profile, wine to propose a maiden or a princess! This wine was my favourite vintage. 18/20 points
FMC Chenin Blanc 2008, off-dry, golden straw colour, subtle oak, baked apple, very well-balanced, it lingers forever, wine to age a few years 17.5/20 points
FMC Chenin Blanc 2009, great vintage, superbly balanced, exquisite sweetness, honey, orange peel, mind-blowing palate profile and great acidity 17/20 points
Concluding remarks
Ken Forrester and Martin Meinert stated that they follow certain principles in making the FMC: they source wines from a particular block from the estate, always add a subtle kiss of grapes infected with botrytis and a tiny splash of the FMC wine from the next vintage, exclusively use spontaneous or ‘wild’ fermentation and mature the golden liquid in big 400-litre barrels.
The FMC wines showed various profiles from lemon-lime to baked apple or apple-puree and peach which was very exciting and rewarding. The FMC complexity and sublime balance were for me two defining moments of this great wine, which were superbly maintained throughout all vintages. More importantly this wine can age graciously for 5 to 10 years.
The FMC Chenin Blanc is not a wine to be consumed every day. It should be consumed when celebrating a great achievement or event and carefully paired with adequate food. Once we do so then only the sky is the limit.
(Note: When writing this article I used The FMC booklet prepared by Ken Forrester Vineyards and wikipedia.org website)
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POST # 137-2516
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10 years of FMC Forrester Meinart Chenin Blanc - Vertical Tasting 2000-2009 |
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