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The People's Guide on old vines and new wines
11 September 2009  by Neil Pendock & Michael Olivier
Neil Pendock meets a Belfast banker and discovers a stunner Shiraz that could just as well have been a Chenin, while Michael Olivier celebrates fifty years of Pinotage and pairs it with a spiced lamb dish.
Neil's Wine of the Week
Roundstone Shiraz 2007

The Damage: around R35 for a 750ml bottle.

First Impression: Van Morrisson on a stream-of-consciousness trip in Astral Weeks.

The Story: Bernard McCoy is a Belfast banker who bought a 110ha farm on the Kasteelberg in Riebeeksrivier because he liked the view of Table Mountain. After grubbing up 14ha of old vine Chenin to plant Merlot he now has a barn full of the most expensive firewood in South Africa and an expensive lesson learnt - treat expensive "consultants" in the same way farm workers deal with Cape Cobras and Green Mambas. The Merlot was a personal mistake as he doesn't drink red wine but he's aging it in old barrels from Château Margaux nonetheless. Bernard's tipple is white: a blend of a barrel of Chenin made from grapes grown by Anton Espost, his neighbour and landlord of Riebeek-Kasteel plus a barrel of Grenache Blanc from Eben Sadie who has bought 2.5ha of his Shiraz grapes for Columella for the past five years. The other 2.5ha was aged for two years ("too long" moans Bernard) in old barrels so Bernard is selling it off cheap.

The Taste: Intensity without density, the incredible lightness of berries, to paraphrase Milan Kundera.

Michael Says: We need to pay attention to what is happening in these less popular wine regions, often the wines knock those of the popular [and close to Cape Town] regions into a cocked hat.

Neil Says: Serious Swartland Shiraz. Is this what Saxenburg meant by SSS?

Did You Know? Platter five star laureate Donovan Rall has three barrels of 2008 vintage Roundstone grapes maturing softly next to Bernard's firewood stash. A 2011 Platter five star stunner in the making!

The Small Print: From Bernard's shale vineyards visitors have an excellent view of the large-scale Shiraz vineyards being established on the other side of the valley by Johann Rupert.

Contact details: roundstone@kingsley.co.za or (022) 482-3245.

Michael's Wine of the Week perfect with the Denningvleis
Van Loveren Pinotage 2008

The Damage: expect to pay around R32 a bottle

First Impression: Perfect Pinotage Pleasure, plums and berries.

The Story: The Retiefs of van Loveren make elegant wines to suit all pockets, very friendly family farm.

The Taste: Delicious tastes of ripe banana, ripe black figs and red summer berries with a cranberry lift.

Michael Says: I have given you a couple of Pinotages lately, it is after all the 50th birthday of Pinotage and we need to be proudly South African.

NeilSays: Our extensive blind tastings for The People's Guide confirmed that Pinotage is the red cultivar which over delivers on quality at the lowest price points - an observation made in spades by this fesh and fruity wine.

Did You Know? Van Loveren is also the home of the Four Cousins range of wines. The Natural Sweet Rosé being the knockout best seller sold more magnums in a Soweto Hypermarket than bottles of 2 litre of the "Big Red" cooldrink.

The small print: 12 tons a hectare off an 11 year old vineyard. 14% alcohol, dry with 2.8g/l sugar. Matured on oak staves for 6 months.

Contact details info@vanloveren.co.za or (023) 615-1505.

Denningvleis - spiced fricassee of lamb

Dendeng is a Malay word for meat which was cut in slices and cured with salt and spices, dried in the sun and then grilled with coconut oil. It was made from the meat of a Water Buffalo was served as a main course in the Batavian Rystafel.

Denningvleis, now seldom served, is a favourite dish of the people of the Cape, using interesting combinations of spices. It is usually served with steamed white basmati rice.

The old Cape Malay recipes all call for "fat leg of mutton meat". This recipe uses shoulder and a little of the fat would add to the flavour.

To serve 4 - 6, you'll need:
  • 3 large onions, peeled and sliced very thinly
  • 4 large cloves of garlic chopped
  • 1 chili, deseeded and finely chopped
  • a little vegetable oil
  • 1kg boned shoulder of lamb cut into cubes, 2.5cm square
  • extra water or lamb stock for the cooking process if required
  • 3 bay leaves
  • 5 whole cloves
  • 5 whole allspice
  • salt and freshly milled black pepper
  • 2 tablespoons tamarind
  • a little boiling water
  • ½ tsp freshly grated nutmeg
Method:

In a heavy casserole with a tight fitting lid gently fry the onions, garlic and chili in the oil until the onions are soft and transparent. Place the meat, washed in fresh water (to provide a little moisture to the steaming process) on top. Add the bay leaves, cloves, allspice, salt and freshly milled black pepper to taste.

Cover with a round of greaseproof paper and the lid of the pot and steam gently over low heat for about 45 minutes. Check from time to time to ensure that the meat is not cooking dry or burning.

Add very little water or lamb stock if necessary. Meantime soak the broken up tamarind in about 3 tablespoons of boiling water. Strain and set aside for later use. After the 45 minutes sprinkle over the tamarind water and the freshly grated nutmeg. If you are not able to get tamarind, use half lemon juice or vinegar, half water. Jars of Tamarind paste are available on supermarket shelves.

Simmer again for a further fifteen minutes, remove the whole spices, and reseason if necessary. Serve with steamed white rice.

RELATED LINKS:

Pendock Uncorked in the Sunday Times by Neil Pendock
People, places, wine and food by Michael Olivier

Follow The People's Guide on Twitter.
 
This article has been read 2653 times.

Bernard, you beauty! Lottie - 11 September 2009
Wonderful wine, wonderful price! Thanks to Niel and Mike for alerting us.


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