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Stanley Fish, columnist for the New York Time


2008 : The year of wine hoaxes and winning blends
14 January 2009  by Graham Howe
"We taste with both our tongues and our minds, and it's easy to lead minds astray" warns Edward Dolnick, author of "The Forger's Spell". I stumbled across a fascinating leader page article on infamous food and wine hoaxes in the International Herald Tribune (3 September 2008). The author warns, "Experts make the best victims of fraud because they jump to unwarranted conclusions ... We prefer wine with a pedigree even if it's a phoney one ... Expectations are everything."
An expert on the psychology of fraud and forgery, Dolnick believes that overconfidence is the fraudster's best ally - helped by a high price-tag. He's fond of quoting magicians who believe "When you're certain you cannot be fooled, you become easy to fool" - and enjoy "finding smart people who bring a lot to the table - cultural experience, shared expectations, pre-conceptions. The more they bring, the more there is to work with."

The review analyses well-publicised hoaxes perpetrated on a gullible public in 2008 like the creation of a fictitious wine list and restaurant by wine critic Robert Goldstein which won a Wine Spectator "award of excellence" in 2008 - and the great fish forgery in New York where fancy restaurants passed off tilapia as tuna. In another recent hoax, psychologists fooled volunteers invited to a "strawberry yoghurt tasting" who were then given chocolate yoghurt - two-thirds praised the strawberry flavour.

Dolnick also draws on the legendary wine hoax of 2002 - where a French researcher fooled every expert at a tasting by adding a tasteless, odourless red additive to white wine. Brochet concluded, "About 2 or 3% of people detect the white wine flavour but invariably they have little experience of wine culture. Connoisseurs tend to fail to do so. The more training they have, the more mistakes they make." Dolnick concludes, "For the experts, the term 'red wine' carries countless associations. The amateurs' ignorance keeps them from exploring subtle byways; they can't wander too far."

Stanley Fish, columnist for the New York Times, offers a second opinion on fooling the experts, "Fooled but not foiled". "The moral is that a hoax that is sufficiently and painstakingly elaborated can deceive anyone if conditions are favourable. The success of a hoax reflects on the skill of the hoaxer and says nothing about the substantive views of those who were fooled by it." Food (and wine) for thought indeed.

There are many ways of looking at wine - whether tasting sighted or unsighted. Expectations and cultural preconceptions play a huge role. I saw wine from a different perspective at a recent Bouchard Finlayson tasting at The Roundhouse in Camps Bay.

The wine steward serving our table - a young black graduate of the innovative Let's Sell Lobster Bush Logic course - expertly demonstrated his new wine knowledge and training. While pouring decanted vintages of Galpin Peak Pinot Noir, he compared the variety "which can be like a red wine and a white wine to the hippopotamus which also can't make up its mind whether it wants to live on land or water"; and a line-up of (wooded) Bouchard Finlayson Chardonnay to the distinctive cry of the fish eagle which lives in the trees. We weren't drinking Cabernet - but in case you're wondering, it's the elephant - big-structured, thick-skinned and with great longevity.

The Italian varieties in the new Hannibal 2006 - an eclectic blend of Sangiovese, Nebbiolo and Barbera with Shiraz, Mourvedre and Pinot Noir - are the winemaker's tribute to the African general who crossed the Alps by elephant. I've also enjoyed sampling Morgenster's new Italian collection - Nabucco 2006 (made from Nebbiolo grapes) inspired by Verdi's story of love, passion and exile in a Babylonian court; and Morgenster Tosca 2006, a blend of Sangiovese with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

At a seminar on new trends in blends at Cape Wine 2008, I tasted an intriguing line-up of new flavours which cross the frontiers of traditional Bordeaux, Burgundy and Rhone assemblages - and may fool many an expert. Are new world blends the way forward for redefining brand South Africa? Coming on-stream, exciting newer varieties (think Mourvedre, Grenache and Italian) are adding diversity to red blends - and encouraging winemakers to develop individualistic signature wines. At the seminar, we tasted Waterford's 2004 Mediterranean mix of Syrah, Mourvedre, Petit Verdot and Barbera; Ken Forrester's Gypsy 2004 (Shiraz and Grenache); Idiom SMV, Fairview Caldera and Adi Badenhorst's innovative blends of rare white/red varieties.

Co-chair Ginette du Fleuriot, Cape wine master, concluded, "These are early days for the use of different varieties and terroir in new blends. Cape winemakers and viticulturalists are in an experimental phase. Vergelegen started the trend in white wine towards coastal blends of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon (epitomised by Cape Point Vineyards Isliedh 2006 which initially won Duncan Savage 2008 Diners Club Winemaker of the Year). Gone are the days of over-oaked white wine. Chenin Blanc and Viognier are the other pivotal varieties in new world blends" - like the superb Vondeling Babiana, Lammershoek Roulette and De Grendel Winifred we tasted.

Is the super-premium category of blends primarily there to create a halo effect for top-end cellars? At the lower end, are the cheap-and-cheerful blends driving the bigger-volume export brands moving consumers away from varietal wines and encouraging consumers to try the emerging new flavours in South African wine? Dave Hughes, chairman of the Diner's Club panel, comments on the top dry white blend category, "The standing of white blends in the marketplace has been transformed in the last ten years thanks to exciting releases from high-quality cellars like Cape Point Vineyards".
 
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Mind Tasting Mille Fleurs - 12 January 2009
Platter's ratings of The Goose Cabernet 2007 (4 stars)and the Uitvlucht Cabernet 2007 (1/2 star) in the 2009 guide from two samples taken from the same tank at the same time confirm that mind tasting is a serious local problem too.
For the record Andrew McDowall - 14 January 2009
The suggestion that the ratings for The Goose Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 and Uitvlucht Bo-Langkloof Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 in the current (2009) edition of Platter's Guide are the result of "mind tasting" is devoid of all truth, as I explained previously (refer to http://blogs.thetimes.co.za/pendock/2008/11/29/jp-wades-in/#more-492).

The salient facts are as follows:
1. The wine identified as The Goose Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 in Platter's was never released as a commercial product. This was confirmed telephonically by brand co-owner Morn? Jonker on December 8th. He told us that after submitting the wine as a barrel preview for the previous edition, i.e. 2008 (and earning a provisional 4-star rating), the decision was made not to market it as a standalone variety but instead to blend it with the 2007 Shiraz (also submitted to 2008 Platter but considered too unformed for even a tentative rating) to create the 2007 version of the wine known as The Goose Expression. In short, there never was an "official" The Goose Cabernet Sauvignon 2007.

2. The Uitvlucht Bo-Langkloof Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, also vinified from Morn? Jonker's Schoonberg farm fruit BUT SELECTED FROM DIFFERENT BARRELS according to Jonker, was submitted to Platter 2008 separately under the Uitvlucht Wines banner. Worth noting is that no mention was made in the accompanying technical documentation of the wine's "family tie" with The Goose. Extremely youthful, and still showing signs of malolatic fermentation, the Uitvlucht Cabernet 2007 preview was considered unfair to rate, even provisionally. But the enthusiastic tasting note ("? enticing herbal red berry fruit & sophisticated structure? building blocks in place for fine debut?") clearly signalled an expectation for a 4-star (or better) rating for the final, market-ready wine.

3. According to Platter protocol, a wine submitted pre-bottling one year may be resubmitted as a bottled product the next. The bottled Uitvlucht Cabernet 2007 arrived for tasting for the current (2009) guide accompanied by technical data which differed significantly from last time: the wine was now said to have been picked at 24.5 Balling, with an alcohol of 13% and utilizing 30% new wood, compared with 26 Balling, 14.5% alcohol and 60% new wood previously. Though our technical specification document had since been modified to give producers the opportunity to state whether their wines appear under another party's labels, again there was no mention of a connection with The Goose.

4. Irina von Holdt CWM, tasting sighted in the presence of wine coordinator Ina Smith, herself an experienced taster and wine educator, was surprised to find in her glass a much less attractive Uitvlucht Cabernet 2007 than expected. Therefore, in line with policy, the backup bottle went into a second round of tasting, conducted double-blind (i.e. without reference to the producer, variety or region), the result of which corroborated the initial sighted review. The same procedure was followed, incidentally, for two other Uitvlucht wines submitted for the 2009 guide, namely the Bon Accord Shiraz 2007 and the Uitvlucht Wines Vintage Port Revolution 2007, both reviewed for Guide 2008 as pre-final samples and resubmitted for the new book.

5. Given the blind corroboration-tasting described above, which eliminated any possible bias on the part of the taster, we I am absolutely certain that "mind tasting" played no part in the ratings for the wines in question.

6. Last August, when our logistics team contacted The Goose Wines to determine why final/bottled versions of their Cabernet and Shiraz 2007 hadn't been sent for review for Guide 2009, we understood that the wines were still in stock and thus should be included in the new guide. However, the above telecon with Morn? Jonker showed this to be a miscommunication. Had the facts been correctly conveyed to us at the time of the original enquiry, we obviously would not have relisted the wines in the 2009 book.


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