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| The ghost of Dr James Barry |
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| Cloete's restaurant interior |
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| Chef Simon Kemp |
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| The Ghosts of Cloete's past |
| 21 July 2009 by Nikki Lordan, WINE.CO.ZA |
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| Cloete's restaurant boasts a new chef and I can finally say a ghost managed to make me gulp down High Constantia Brut with sufficient speed and elegance.
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A new hotel interior certainly calls for a new chef. The recent launch of Chef Simon Kemp took place at the newly renovated Alphen Hotel Cloete's Restaurant. Rumoured to still roam the grounds, the ghosts of the Alphen Estate and historical monument include Henry Cloete, Josias Cloete and Dr James Barry, who guests at the launch had the pleasure of meeting. The Cloete family bought the estate in 1850 and is still the sole trustees of the Alphen Estate.
Dr James Barry (found on his death actually to be a woman) and Josias Cloete apparently clashed over one of the Dreyer sisters also from the Constantia Valley. Cloete, in a fit of jealous fury challenged Dr Barry to a gunfight which resulted in a statue losing its head. Some say they missed deliberately because they were such good friends. Needless to say, when Dr Barry was found on his death to be a woman, the realisation hit that it was unmistakeably one of South Africa's first public lesbian relationships, although it was only the briefest of flings.
While trying to avoid uncomfortable conversations about Dr Barry and friends, Simon Kemp, with his impressively long curriculum vitae seduced us with roasted duck spring rolls in ginger and green tea preserve and salmon cake with saffron risotto. Upon arrival the ghost of Dr James Barry with parasol and poise introduced herself with the constant refrain of "I was once a gynaecologist, you know." The delicious canapés certainly made awkward conversations with the ghost a little easier. Dr James Barry was coincidently the first doctor to perform the caesarean section in South Africa.
Cloete's restaurant is classic country hotel meet contemporary restaurant and the interior leaves a faint reminder of hotel overnights in faraway Free State towns. Steenberg Sauvignon Blanc 2008 was served with starters of home cured gravadlax, white tomato soup and crayfish bisque. This wine, named one of 2008 Talk Radio 702 Top 10, is old world meets new world with typical grassiness and tropical fruit on the nose.
"Going back to the basics" is how Simon best describes his methodology with meals prepared from scratch from the herb and vegetable garden in the backyard of The Alphen. Venison carpaccio and beef fillet with gorgonzola melt and port wine reduction accompanied the Buitenverwachting Cabernet Sauvignon 2004. Unlike many other Cabs of that year, this one has no traces of the high alcohol characteristic of so many 2004 vintages and the hot weather experienced.
Coconut and Cardamom Crème Brûlée with Klein Constantia Vin de Constance tipped the scale if I had any doubts about Simon Kemp. The Vin de Constance, bright gold in colour, leaves tropical flavours and richness in the mouth to accompany the Crème Brûlée.
The history of the Alphen Hotel is filled with gun fights, love triangles and intrigue and most definitely worth a visit for a dining experience so out of the ordinary.
The Cloete's Restaurant at the Alphen Country House Hotel is situated on Alphen Drive, Groot Constantia.
For more information or reservations, contact (021) 794-5011 or email reservations@alphen.co.za.
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