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Riesling grapes before ripening
 
Schloss Johannisberg in the Rheingau, Germany, the spiritual home of Riesling
The Urziger Wurzgarten in the Mosel, Germany, from the river
The vineyards of top Piesporter producer Reinhold Haart in the Piesport area of Mosel
The Mosel river from the Wurzgarten vineyard


Riesling revival? What revival?
26 August 2011  by Dave March, CWM
Of all the noble wine varieties in the world today, more than fifty major varieties alone, there is a surprising amount of agreement on which makes the finest wine, Riesling. Wine experts love it, but it seems the public doesn't.
More than any grape it reflects where it is grown and it needs certain conditions to flourish. Cool climate, long sunny ripening conditions, stoney, poor soil. Its home is Germany but it can be found in Australia, France, Austria, New Zealand, Argentina, Canada, Brazil, even China. And South Africa.

South Africa possesses areas where the Riesling can truly express itself, notably Constantia. But excellent Riesling is being made in Robertson by Danie De Wet and Rietvallei, in Elgin by Paul Cluver (a Tri-Nation’s Gold medal winner), in Stellenbosch by Jordan, Thelema and Hartenberg, in Durbanville and Paarl with grapes sourced from Darling by Nitida and Fairview respectively. Then there are the superb dessert Rieslings of Robertson Winery, Klein Constantia, Paul Cluver and Van Loveren.

Each winery comprises some degree of the calcareous, granity, sandstone and clay soil, the heat tempered by sea breezes or aspect, or cool pockets where it can ripen slowly. Add to that careful rootstock choice, the right clone, low yields and expert winemaking and you have the requirements for world class Riesling.

Riesling styles in South Africa can match all tastes. From bone dry, steely minerality which can match the Mosel’s finest, or lime fruity in-your-face aromatics of Australia’s Clare valley, or fragrant, silky off dry styles reminiscent of the best Spatlese, right through to the luscious bitter apricot treats of Noble Late Harvest styles often with more than 200g of sugar per litre yet beautifully balanced due to Riesling’s natural acidity.

So why doesn’t it sell? Hoping to prove myself wrong, I counted the number of Sauvignon blancs on the shelves of a leading national supermarket; 61 brands to choose from. How many Rieslings? One. There were three ‘Cape Rieslings’ (Crouchen blanc, a decidedly inferior grape). One look at the South African Wine Information and System’s (SAWIS) figures tells the sad story. Riesling makes up just 0.2% of the total area of wine plantings, a tiny 211 hectares, even Cinsault has ten times more. Less than 1000 tons of Riesling grapes are crushed for wine, compare that to 30 000 tons for Ruby Cabernet or 270 000 tons for Chenin blanc. The figures have remained static for more than five years, which makes the comment in the SAWIS Industry Directory, that there is ‘renewed consumer interest,’ rather puzzling.

I guess we wine lovers should be pleased about this. Genuine consumer interest would push up demand and prices and increased production might not equate with increased quality. Riesling is truly the ‘Cinderella’ grape. The true beauty hidden by the rest, rather like the best SA Pinot noirs, only less challenging to perfect. So perhaps we should not be shouting for a revival. Anyway, if Jancis Robinson OBE MW can’t revive it then who can?

Instead we should be selecting our favourites and squirreling them away so that if its time finally does come we can bask in our foresight and expertise, while drinking some exquisite wine.
 
This article has been read 2429 times.

Riesling Richard - 26 August 2011
Perhaps if the wine writers actually punted Riesling, the consumers would start noticing, and that notice would then reflect in their requesting it from their local bottle store or supermarket. And so the sales could possibly begin increasing.
sweet&sour dieter - 27 August 2011
Riesling is punted in Europe by wine writers in a major way but it remains a wine geek tipple there too. My guess is ordinary consumers are not confident enough yet to risk ridicule from their peers by sharing or displaying interest in wines with residual sugar. And with good smack of residual sugar is when steely, cool climate Riesling sings, with the Mosel and the measured play between sweetness and acidity of it's wines as star performer.

The 3 A's (Australia, Austria, Alsace) are the only places producing dry, racy, lime-and-wax perfumed Riesling of real interest imo. The German trocken Rieslings outside the Pfalz can be very bare and in my experience introducing the grape to friends, even more challenging than getting friends to actually buy that bottle of kabinett or spaetlese which they so loved when forced on them.

It's the AAA model SA producers should seek. We simply don't have the climate needed to emulate German wines and I've frankly given up on even trying SA Rieslings since they all seem to be made in the 'off-dry' style which can be very cloying. (Even New Zealand can't these right and you'd think the climate there would be better suited.)
Blanc de Mer from Bouchard Finlayson Harry - 27 August 2011
This is a good piece of writing!
There is an outstanding white blend containing Riesling from the Hemel en Aarde Valley called Blanc de Mer!
This wine was even rated by Steven Spurrier (08 vintage). A little while back we tasted a 1991 and it was absolute bliss! ..like a walk in a field of flowers, with the sun on your back and a slight breeze on one's skin!
I can only recommend this!
the once and future king heartbreak - 29 August 2011
Dieter thanks for the insightful comments. Riesling is a wine geek's variety. It expresses sight like no other grape (excepting perhaps Pinot Noir). I know I sound like a snob here, but I think in some ways Sauv blanc is to Riesling what Bordeaux(and its imitators) is to Burgundy. Sauv has mass appeal because it easy for a consumer in our current paradigm of obssesivley naming flavours to connect with and to understand: cut grass, passion fruit, boredom, nettles etc etc ad nauseam. Easy to recognise, name and feel good about oneself. It's a bit like kids that love sweet stuff but have no time for sweetbreads or stinky cheese as yet. These wines are begginers wines. Things like depth, texture, and origin are overlooked in favour of varietal expression.

Therefore, a variety like Riesling which is primarily an expressor of great vineyard sights like Wolfer Goldgrube, Scharshofberg, Saumagen, or Ackland is bound to get left behind when presented to a public that is for the all intents and purposes still very much in the beginning phase of wine appreciation. Sure, examples like Blue Nun ( based on Riesling) can do the job of varietal Riesling, but who's gonna get excited about that?

i've been studying Riesling for some time now and really belive there is hope for the Cape to produce some thrilling examples - but probablly not from its current plantings. I don't think anything we produce right now is truely fantastic. Some are very good at best.

The trouble is location. As I've said, one can produce good wines from Riesling close to the coast. They will taste and feel like coastal wines. Aromatic, perhaps a bit broad and weighty. Not bad stuff. However, if the variety is to truely sing, one needs to give it a continental sight. I worked in Clare and in the Mosel last year, and quite obviously their climates, although very differnent, are both distinctly continental.

We have continental places in the Cape, but the great sights are not yet planted, and therein lies my hope. I have spent significant time exploring these sights and can say with confidence that they are extraordinary. High, cold, and far inland. That 's the only kind place that Riesling will really respond to in the Cape. Change any one of those three factors, and mediocrity will creep back in.

Apologies for offending anyone.


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