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Bling it on - the relative merits of wine competitions
02 October 2012  by Christian Eedes
It should come as no surprise to you, dear reader, that as a professional wine judge, I'm not about to trash wine competitions. Equally, however, I'm not going to overstate their importance. In fact, it's curious to me quite how provocative the topic of wine competitions is.
Let’s all agree that wine competitions are always going to be around: for the vast majority of producers, competition success is hugely important in the marketplace and consumers rely on the results, however valid these may be or not, to inform their purchasing decision when confronted by a goods category that is firstly difficult to understand and secondly vastly overtraded.

What makes wine competitions unnecessarily controversial are the extremists: those conveners who insist that the results that their competition generates are utterly authoritative SPACE (it’s a bit rich claiming to deliver the top 100 wines in the country when you attract less than 400 entries) on the one hand and the detractors who not only fixate on the element of chance in competition success but go further to suggest that competitions are run by those totally out of touch with the common people and only seeking to further their own agendas.

Much statistical work has been done demonstrating that random chance is a huge factor when it comes to the outcome of blind tastings – the evidence is compelling but I think rather misses the point. The aim of definitively setting one wine apart from another might not be as workable as some wine experts claim, but what different sets of rankings achieve, is to keep the wine industry fluid with no entrenched hierarchy. 

In the South African context, therefore, we currently see an intense and largely wholesome rivalry between producers, the corporates like DGB, KWV and Distell battling it out at one level and the boutiques like Chamonix, Paul Cluver and Tokara at another.

More generally, there’s the endless discussion of quality and style that differing results engender among all stakeholders, these being the producers again, trade, media and consumer. If it were not for competitions, I guarantee you the industry collectively would be further back when it came to such fundamental issues as cork versus screwcap or the threat posed by spoilage yeast Brettanomyces. 

The topic of the moment is, of course, pyrazines: there’s much greater caution overall when it comes to rewarding wines that show high levels of this compound than there were two or three years ago, and though I think we must be careful not to throw the baby out with the bathwater, this must be seen as a positive development.

When it comes to interpreting results consumers are well advised to look for general trends rather than treating a single rating of an individual wine as absolute. For instance, look at the average ratings across a range of wines from a certain producer (it can’t be sheer coincidence that KWV was most successful overall at Veritas last year and Old Mutual Trophy Wine Show this year). Competitions are also useful for tracking general tendencies when it comes to regions (clearly Darling and Durbanville are well suited to Sauvignon Blanc) and vintages (2009 trumps 2008 when it comes to Stellenbosch reds).

In closing, I’d like to posit the idea that a wine industry gets the competition circuit it deserves. Wine judging qualifications are important and the wine evaluation course as run by Stellenbosch University is a minimum. However, a lot more training could be offered. The Wine Judging Academy begun by Michael Fridjhon, and set to run again in 2013 after being suspended this year, has proved a good means of identifying new talent. Then there’s also the matter of experience and this can only be gained by putting in the hours. The pool of senior tasters in this country is ageing fast and a new generation does not seem to be emerging - there should be more of a dialogue between senior and junior tasters.
 
This article has been read 2816 times.

new tasting talent Angela Lloyd - 02 October 2012
An old drum that needed a bit of a new beat; thanks Christian. I think it's important for anyone who is serious about wine ,and who aspires to become a judge, to taste broadly not only within the South African spectrum, but outside it as well. Wine Cellar, both in Cape Town and Johannesburg and Caroline's Fine Wines offer many tastings of quality international wines throughout the year, so there's no excuse not to broaden the palate. Setting up tasting groups with friends is also a good option; it spreads the cost and can generate much useful debate.
I sadly agree with Christian about the lack of emergence of a new generation of tasters.. It's not just an age factor vs capability that's the problem, but that the younger generation is more likely to relate to people more their own age rather than the current older generation. Unless younger talent is nutured, the wine industry itself will not move forward as it needs to.
Barriers to entry Bryce Gillespie - 02 October 2012
Succession seems to be one of the world's largest problems at the moment, be it in business, leadership or wine judging. As a student at Stellenbosch and through my dabblings in the wine industry, I can tell you that there is certainly no shortage in interest from the younger generation. The problem lies with the cost of these events. Angela is right, Caroline's and Wine Cellar do host fantastic tastings throughout the year, but the events usually attract a fairly high price. And understandably so. However, it does begin to get difficult for the "younger" generation to get involved. Even more at hand here is the cost of wine courses. The Cape Wine Academy and WSET courses are great, but with starting prices of close to R1500, without some form of financial support, they remain out of reach for many.
Access for Young Tasting Talent Jeanne-Marie de Villiers - 02 October 2012
Just a short comment on this topic of introducing young tasters to wine judging panels. I know there is many youngsters, like me, that have done the courses, and do the extra work in tasting groups.. But it seems not easy to get into the "judging circles". Surely it takes speaking up amongst groups, and delivering a strong opinion, but apart from theory these qualities are only harvested by experience and exposure. Why not open panels more for "training judges", scores to be counted or not. How do one access to such experience?
spreading the cost Angela Lloyd - 02 October 2012
I agree with you, Bryce, most of Wine Cellar & Caroline's international wine tastings are expensive as are the WSET courses. But this is where the group of friends comes in. I'm a member of a group of 11 who get together once a month to taste international wines. We each put in R200 (to go up to R250) per month, a different member selecting theme and wines.
With regard to Jeanne-Marie's query of how to break into tasting panels, I know Charles Hopkins, the new Chair of Veritas & the Young Wine Show, wants to give youngsters tasting experience.
Michael Fridjhon usually appoints associates for the Trophy Wine Show from the top students at his Wine Academy, which is being held again next January, after a break this year. I don't know about other competitions, but it would certainly benefit the industry if all made space for at least one or two young associates.
look around more Heidi Ross - 08 October 2012
Whilst still rather snobby, the Wine Judging Academy is a good thing, except there sem to be not too many "youngsters" accepted on to it. But agreed it is extremely important, not just for ensuring a fresh new generation of judges, but also to facilitate the needed engagement with young wine drinkers in a language they understand. Nothing makes something "not cool" quicker that your dad liking it! There is some progress, too. I love Wine Extra digimag which uses normal (and young) wine drinkers to review wines every month. You gets lots of opinions and it's a good read. Wine makers would be well advised to read them too, as they'll quickly get a feel for taste trends/styles to come.
Judging In SA Greg Sherwood MW, Handford Wines, London - 08 October 2012
If we can get some of the 7, 8 or even 9 Master of Wine candidates through in the next years, and convince them not to move to Europe, USA or Australia, there will be a super new qualified pool of wine talent ready to take up the judging mantle. As Angela says, there is not excuse for not "internationalising" ones palate. There are plenty of tasting groups opening all sorts of gems every weekend! To blame cost does not fly either. You think its any cheaper to taste fine wine in London!? Sadly not much. Its all about passion and focus. Where people want to achieve greatness, whether as a wine judge or winemaker, they will, if they have the passion, drive and enthusiasm. Lets see some new blood and new faces on the judging circut soon please.
wine judging and standardisation Jean Vincent RIDON - 09 October 2012
Dear Christian,
You raise very valid question about the authority of wine competitions in South Africa, and as yourself, I can't denigrate what I have been very active with. When I came in South Africa, I twisted the arm of the very closed world of Veritas tasters by having me invited as a foreign judge, being at that time the only local certified by OIV as a wine judge. But I have been greatly disappointed when at the tasting I have been instructed to award wine with no defaults instead of wines with qualities. I raised my voice and needless to say, you can imagine I have never been invited again at Veritas. As a reaction to this monolithic and simplistic vision of wine, I created the Air France Classic Wine Trophy to offer an alternative subjective vision of wine judging. Because in my opinion it cannot be one taste, or one truth, we have to accept that subjectivity is the essence of our industry, even if our financial managers would love us to make wine as we make industrial standard products. Wine gurus around the world advocate this vision, from Tom Stevenson to Stephan Tanzer, from Jancis to Robert, they never dared to claim their selection was the best wine, they claimed it was the wine they preferred! Awarding the best would mean that the truth is only one, and this proselytism, almost fundamentalism, makes me very uncomfortable. Because this same standardised vision made us accept that aggressive unripe sauvignon blanc was the norm, that syrah has to be sweet and oaky, an that the mintiness in cabernet sauvignon was terroir driven... Yes the public needs guidance, and the winemakers need acknowledgement of their success. But wine judging can't fall into ticking box of multiple choice questions. The idea that the University of Stellenbosch training should be a prerequisite to judge is as sustainable as believing that the Universtity can teach passion in winemaking. To be able to judge you need to expose yourself to as many style as possible, instead of being instructed which style is the "best". Most university driven judges have been formatted into what their professor think is the right way! The same professors who spend days in white coat, and love wine through a pH/extract ratio! It results in a similarity in all competitions in South Africa, because the panels has been formatted the same way, and the press people attending, or invited, are always the same small group, hoping from a competition to a jury, not really opening doors to new comers because they want to avoid competition in an already devastated press industry.
The early success of the Classic Wine Trophy was due to the fact the jury was fresh palates, with a strong identity. The wines selected were different, and it gave chances to a different style of wine to be praised. It gave the public an alternative guidance within a more continental style, and rewarded passionate winemakers who took the risk to look outside the box.
I always strongly supported diversity in our industry, And our wine competitions must allow alternative an vision, instead of trying to fit all in the mould. In the kingdom of blind silent tasting, I introduced the tables of 3 judges discussing the wines, giving a chance to some spiritual wines squeezed between two powerful monsters. As well it allowed more junior tasters to discuss their vision with more senior judges, improving their exposures. This table open discussion was the trademark of the Classic Wine Trophy, and was then adopted by other competition for the greater good. (do not worry, I will not sue them for copyright infringement... lol ). Wine Competitions are needed, but to survive they must develop their own identity, and become leaders instead of being followers. Winemakers need to feel their can take risks and be rewarded for their success, and the public needs to feel reassured that they can enjoy alternative wines without feeling they are wrong! It is crutial if we need to attract a new category of wine lovers. We must respect and cultivate this diversity, and it canott be by having the same spirit directing the competitions' tastings. We can always debate the Pavie 2003 as Robert Parker and Jancis Robinson did. It does not mean that any of them is having the sole truth, it means that wine makes us dream because it is always different!
(PS: I do not have any interest any longer in any South African wine competition)
SA WINE INDEX Izak Smit - 22 October 2012
Christian and Jean Vincent,

Thanks for your sober thoughts re the merits of wine competitions. Your reasoning was precisely why the Index was created for interpreting results of wine competitions.

As Jean Vincent pointed out, "we can always debate the Pavie 2003 as Robert Parker and Jancis Robinson did. It does not mean that any of them is having the sole truth, it means that wine makes us dream because it is always different!"

And yes I do rate the Classic Wine Trophy very highly. It has proofed one of the best amongst 44 multi-national results that the Index uses and particularly for acknowledging quality abve anything else. Most other competitions will score you tops one year and down and out the following year. Quality wine does not go up and down.

In my mind this is all to do with the caliber of wine judges and both of you and the other respondents have pointed out the core problem. The question is are we going to do something about the situation and if so who?

After 4 years, the Index shows amazing truths abouth this subject. Facts and trends are facinating and the reason why competitions were given weights (for rating participating wines) in the Index as none could compare with another.

Reality must ultimately prevail!






Incorrect terminology Jean Vincent RIDON - 08 January 2013
Dear Christian,
it came to my attention that I misused the terminology OIV in my comment to your article. Over the last decade, the OIV has been regulating more specifically its involvement in wine competitions, but when I created the Classic Wine Trophy in 1998, the OIV was only publishing guidelines. When I was in France it was tradition that only winemakers, sommelier, brokers and member of the wine trade would be selected as judges for competition following the guidelines given by the OIV. It can probably be seen as a French Boerbond way to keep our privileges, and our virtual titles, I agree. I actually meant was that when I arrived in South Africa I was probably the only one with the experience of tasting in various wine tastings following the guidelines of the OIV, because at that time the OIV was not giving endorsement. If my French arrogance have been misleading some, I truly apologize and I never wanted to misrepresent the realtiy, I just have forgotten to keep myself updated with the OIV new rules regarding their endorsement. As far as I understood new rules were enforced in 2004, and I have made an incorrect statements then between 2004 and 2008, when ceased to have any direct interest in the Classic Wine Trophy.


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