Exceptional vs Cape Blends

Thursday, 5 August, 2010
Neil Pendock
Neil Pendock warns of a dangerous new liquid form of Apartheid
As George Bernard Shaw pointed out "those who can, do, those who can't teach." But when it comes to buying wine, South Africa's most experienced foreign taster, Dave Hughes, reckons wine educators are a much better bet than Masters of Wine, if you want reliable advice on something decent to drink. Certainly this is his experience in the UK, largest market for SA exports, as he told assembled wine hacks and cosmopolitan bloggers at the Nederburg pre-auction tasting last month.

With SA desperate to break into the US market, the 34th annual conference of the American Association of Wine Educators held at the Hamilton Crowne Plaza Hotel in Washington DC at the end of last month was judged a no brainer as important forum and national showcase by WOSA, Wines of SA, the exporters' mouthpiece. So once again they dispatched jolly communications director and braaimeister (or "braii" as Canadians GoodFoodRevolution confusingly call the ritualized burning of meat) André Morgenthal to present a tasting of "South Africa's Exceptional Red Blends."

Plus a Stellenbosch dominated line-up of "Old Vine Chenin Blanc: A South African treasure" that somehow neglected to include a single Paardeberg offering - but then the lucky list of chosen Chenin was supplied by the Chenin Blanc Producers Association. Paarl producers who have their own Chenin Challenge are unlikely to be impressed either, with not a single Paarl wine in the eight on the tasting which comprised Cederberg, Fleur de Cap (sic), Raats, Rudera, Mulderbosch, FMC, De Trafford vin de Paille and Kanu Kia Ora.

It's a case of déjà vu all over again as André presented to the educators last year too, getting better ratings for his presentation than Jancis Robinson. So while the lovers of Sauvignon Blanc may complain that showcasing Chenin before Sauvignon make no commercial sense when the latter is the most popular SA white cultivar, showing red blends is always a safe bet. Until you take a closer look at the list of wines chosen by WOSA's shadowy wine selection protocol committee:
  • De Toren Fusion V
  • Waterford Jem
  • Badenhorst Red
  • Kanonkop Paul Sauer
  • Chocolate Block
  • Nederburg Ingenuity
  • Bellingham
  • The Bernhard SMV
  • Vergelegen V
Presumably the selection was made on the basis of a broadly based blind tasting - it really would have to be when the WOSA chairman makes arguably the SA red blend with best international reputation, Kanonkop Paul Sauer, a frequent winner of the Pichon Lalande Trophy of the International Wine and Spirit Competition. As is Vergelegen, also safely on the list. The absence of Pichon laureate Meerlust could be to accommodate American sensitivities as Hollywood director Francis Ford Coppola makes his own Rubicon. But the omission of Danie Steytler's Kaapzicht Vision, another Lalande luvvie, is unexpected. Or could it be the presence of Pinotage in Danie's stellar blend that caused it to be left out?

For all the wines chosen are conspicuously lacking in Pinotage, SA's own unique red cultivar. Even the Jem, which contains just about every red varietal except Pinotage, with vintages 2004 - 2006 containing some or all of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Shiraz, Mourvèdre, Petit Verdot, Malbec, Merlot and Barbera.

By my count, the Exceptional Red Blends can be classified broadly into four classes: three Rhône- style, three Bordeaux-style, Razvan Macici's inimitable Italian Ingenuity and Kevin Arnold's Uncle Tom Cobbley and All, Jem. A tasty list indeed, but wouldn't American educators expect some Pinotage, somewhere? By selecting not even a single red blend containing Pinotage in a line-up of eight, the selection protocol committee seems to be dividing SA red blends into two classes: the Exceptional and the Cape blend. A new department of Plural Affairs.

Which could explain why ABSA, long supporters of Pinotage, announced its own Cape Blend competition late last month. Presumably in an attempt to bring a bit of authenticity and national identity back to the debate. Red blends containing between 30% and 75% will be eligible. But hopefully the bankers will not hire the same palates as those who select their annual Top Ten/Twenty line-up as that panel has successfully estranged itself from producers making the overwhelmingly popular coffee/mocha style wines to such an extent that negotiations are underway to establish a modern-style Pinotage competition.

It's the Great Trek all over again, with opinionated individuals leading their angry followers out into the wilderness. The result is sure to be confusion, crossed wires and mixed messages all round.