"Don't mess with an old cowboy" - Bowen Botha, MD, Robertson Winery. The stories flowed as richly as vintage "soetes" when the "old guns" got together under one roof at Robertson Slow in early August. Nine legends who reshaped the future of Robertson Wine Valley in the 1980s and 1990s hosted a hospice fundraiser in the old KWV hall in Robertson. Taking to a stage set like a voorkamer with comfy armchairs and props, the storytellers entertained ninety enchanted dinner guests. "We're winemakers not comedians or entertainers" quipped Bowen Botha, an old hand who has done 28 vintages at Robertson Winery - and played master of ceremonies on the big night. "I'm one of the young winemakers here tonight. Wine is our life. We work together as friends in this valley - and compete with the outside world." There's been no looking back - collaborating on the red wine project, the Chardonnay think-tank and destination marketing of the Robertson Wine Valley. Things could have turned out very differently. Danie de Wet, "the Chardonnay king" of South Africa revealed the valley's rebels of the 1980s considered calling the new wine route "BAR" (Bonnievale, Ashton and Robertson) Valley. "Now how can you call a wine region that?" he asked. The stokkie smuggler paid tribute to Lourens Jonker's pioneering work in the valley and Veritas show ("the only South African wine show respected globally"); and to Paul de Wet of Zandvliet, the valley's Shiraz visionary. Johnny Burger, fifth generation winemaker at Rietvallei, brought the house down with his account of the night Robertson declared UDI (unilateral declaration of independence). When the old guns rode in a posse to a regional wine route meeting at Kleinplasie in Worcester, he told the powers that be, "We haven't come here to ask for your permission. We've come here to tell you we're going to do our own thing!" He got the cold shoulder in Worcester - but was welcomed as a hero back in Robertson. "In the old days we had a beer garden in the agricultural showgrounds - not even a wine garden" added Lourens Jonker. "Robertson Wine Valley started the first regional wine show with a wine garden!" Wynand Retief of Van Loveren takes up the story: "No-one wanted to come over the mountain in those days. Thirty years later Robertson Wine Valley is the second most popular wine route in the country after Stellenbosch. Now the other wine routes are on the wrong side of the mountain!" Wynand added, "It's taken us thirty years to get it right. Apart from Muscadel, we used to make 75% bulk and rebate wine in this valley. Today we sell 75% fine wine - and that's a big achievement." The proof lay in the 25 fine wines on the wine-list at dinner - a showcase for the valley's signature Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Shiraz and noble dessert wines. The storytellers took turns on stage while chef Aviv Liebenberg and his crew from Reuben's at the Robertson served a sumptuous dinner. You know the Robertson Wine Valley has arrived as a food and wine destination when a luxury five-star hotel and restaurant of the calibre of the Robertson Small Hotel raises the bar in the heart of town - joining six boutique lodges in the valley. Stephen de Wet of Arabella and Andre Bruwer of Bon Courage made up the rest of Robertson's magnificent nine. Boet Jonker ("84 years young") of Mooiuitsig is a natural storyteller. He says he doesn't have time for wine snobbery - "At my age I don't have time to drink wine that lingers on the front, middle and back palate!" Looking back, he recalled the days when you had to use the railways to deliver wine beyond a radius of 80 kilometres, you could only open one bottle store for every 2000 male voters, the men only kroegs (and dames lounges where the bartender had to pour liquor behind a partition), when wine sold for less than the tax per bottle today, and when Lieberstein was the biggest selling wine in the world (31 million litres in 1964). Talking of wine brands, we also enjoyed a Robertson Slow dinner with the four cousins at Van Loveren. Winemaker Danelle van Rensburg led a candle-lit tasting of the new reserve Christina van Loveren range in "the most expensive playground in the cellar" - the barrel maturation room. While the four cousins - Bussell, Hennie, Philip and Neil - spun stories about the phenomenal success story of one of South Africa's top five wine brands launched only a decade ago, the women of Van Loveren served a fabulous country feast from grandma's vetkoek to smoer snoek and curry. After you've driven over the mountain to get there, the Robertson cellars feel it's unfair to charge for a wine tasting. At Rietvallei (1864), one of the valley's heritage farms, Johnny Burger showed me portraits of his forebears and their famous 1908 muscat vineyard planted by his great- grandfather. Over an eight-hour "slow" event, sixth generation winemaker Kobus Burger led flights of his Chardonnay, Shiraz, Cabernet and Muscadel (back to a voluptuous 1980 vintage) - while his wife prepared a sensational lunch for twenty, showcasing farm springbok in a muscadel marinade. Tasting your way through Robertson at a snail's pace takes time. Spoiled by choice with over thirty "slow" activities, we had time for one more food and wine tasting. We headed out on the spectacular country road which winds through Eilandia Valley to Bon Cap - "the largest privately owned organic winery in South Africa". Winemaker Marinus Potgieter led a tasting of the best-selling Ruins range at the remote cellar which exports 95% of its wines - including a best-selling Pinotage to the UK and Japan. Afterwards, we tucked into a magnificent "slow" Sunday buffet of freshly-baked pies, Karoo lamb, samp, soet patat and sweets at Bon Rouge Bistro. Over four years, Robertson Slow has grown a cult following among wine-lovers who come from all over the country to experience one of the world's most unique food and wine festivals. Sixth-generation winemakers offer vineyard tours, rare wine tastings and host leisurely lunches in the intimacy of heritage homesteads they throw open to the public one weekend every year. Marking Women's Day, the women are the real heroes - cooking up sumptuous banquets inspired by family recipes and farm produce. Robertson Wine Valley was judged "best innovative wine tourism experience" by the Great Wine Capitals Global Network in 2009. The winning formula is deceptively simple. Values of genuine country hospitality, authenticity, family tradition and modern viticulture run deep in this valley. Looking back, Robertson Wine Valley has undergone a renaissance over two short decades - attracting visitors to the home of best-selling export and local brands - inter alia De Wetshof, Arabella, Bon Cap, Four Cousins, Graham Beck, Golden Kaan, Klipdrift, Robertson Winery, Springfield and Weltevrede. For more information on four annual festivals in the Robertson Wine Valley like Wine on the River on 15th - 17th October and the new Hands-on Harvest on 25th - 27th February, Visit: www.robertsonwinevalley.com