Christmas came a little early for a trio of South African
winemakers who received the fantastic news that their wines had been featured in
Decanter magazine’s Top 50 of 2013.
The three winemakers in question, Chris Alheit of Alheit Vineyards, Donovan Rall of Vuurberg and Ian Naudé of Adoro were all equally delighted to have their wine’s names in the proverbial lights in one of the most influential wine publications in the world.
Alheit’s Cartology 2011 occupied the number 4 spot while
Vuurberg’s White 2011, took the number 36 spot with the 1996 vintage of Adoro
Red hot on its heels at number 37.
In announcing the Top 50 list Decanter wrote that the wines
featured were chosen from more than 3 200 wines selected and featured in
the magazine during the course of 2013. The selection was made on the basis of
quality as well as the value that the wines offered.
The most fascinating thing is that all three are true
believers in firstly, terroir, and secondly, on the benefits of blending to
attain complexity and the best possible expression of both site and fruit. It’s
the hook which Ian Naudé, with 32 vintages under his belt in America (Washington
State and California), Italy, Germany, France and Israel as well as South
Africa, has hung his hat on. “Shiraz or Merlot from Stellenbosch and Paarl have
very different taste profiles. Blending them along with other grapes from
Malmesbury or Darling makes for a seamless, textured and rounded wine.” And the
texture of the Adoro Red is what the Decanter tasting note highlighted: “Texture
defines this blend of Cabernet, Merlot, Shiraz and Mourvèdre – even the nose is
velvety! Elegant with rich, ripe blackberry flavours with a sprinkling of cocoa
and cigar box spice.”
The Adoro 2006 is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz,
Merlot and Mourvèdre. The Cabernet comes from two distinct areas of
Stellenbosch – Stellenboschberg and the Bottelary Hills – while the Shiraz was
sourced from Agter-Paarl and Malmesbury. The Merlot from Swartland and
Stellenbosch contributed intensity with its dark chocolate and mocha tones
while the splash of Mourvèdre from the Perdeberg and Darling chipped in with
spice and a soft, rounding effect to balance the power and depth of the other
grapes. “It’s about the fruit expressing what it’s capable of, not me imposing
myself on anything,” Naudé said.
Donovan Rall has made a name for himself by conjuring up
Platter 5 Star winning white blends. But his day job is at Vuurberg, a small
operation on the slopes of the Simonsberg in the Banhoek valley near the
entrance to Pniel, between Stellenbosch and Franschhoek. The Vuurberg White
2011 is a complex mix of Chenin Banc, Viognier, Semillon, Roussanne, Grenache
Blanc, Verdelho and Clairette Blanche which the Decanter sages pronounced
worthy of 93 points out of 100 and described it as: “Round and exciting with
apple, pear and a creamy vanilla note. Bright mandarin fruit acidity. Textural,
tight and minerally. “ Grapes were sourced from both Stellenbosch and
Swartland and while Rall aged the blend in 30% new French oak he believes that
the wood simply provides a platform for the fruit. “It’s quite opulent with the
Stellenbosch Chenin and Viognier being quite intense and powerful – but the
Clairette Blanche and Verdelho from the Swartland add a freshness which
balances that power beautifully.”
As a result of the Decanter spotlight being shone on this
previously unheralded wine, Rall reports that he’s being bombarded with emails
and phone calls from all over the world. “It’s so rewarding to have this kind
of feedback and attention. The response has been amazing – especially in the
United Kingdom because we’ve never entered any competitions there and have only
just been taken on board by a new importer. I’ve already had to ship them a new
consignment of the next vintage.”
One confused liquor buyer phoned Rall saying a client of his
wanted to know where he could buy the Alheit Adoro Vuurberg wine…
On a more serious note, until 2012 Chris and Suzaan Alheit were virtual unknowns on the South African wine landscape. Then they scorched onto the scene with a Platter 5 Star rating with their first ever wine, the Alheit Cartology 2011, the same wine which Decanter placed in its Top 5 with 96 out of 100!
Like Naudé, the Alheits have worked and travelled
extensively in foreign wine regions – from California, Germany, Australia, New
Zealand and France to Greece. The exposure to different wines and wine making
styles and philosophies has expanded their horizons immeasurably and shaped
their thinking. “Travelling gave us a lot of valuable perspective.
It also cemented a real sense of excitement for what the Cape can achieve if we
play to our strengths. The Old World way of thinking really inspired us.”In
the Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge cellar on the fynbos-bedecked farm Hemelrand, they
keep their wines as simple as possible, allowing the wine to virtually make
itself with their contribution being well-used oak and the addition of some
sulphur to prevent oxidation.
Sadly there is very little Cartology 2011 available anymore
but the wine is mainly Chenin Blanc with a splash (just 8%) of Semillon, all
from old, dry-land bush vines which the Alheits have painstakingly sought out
and paid top dollar for. The vineyards range from Citrusdal, Kasteelberg,
Perdeberg and Stellenbosch’s Bottelary Hills to Franschhoek. Chris Alheit
describes these old vines as South Africa’s vinous heritage and speaks movingly
of finding “the voice of the land itself”.
The past year has seen a noticeable increase in positive
sentiment and assessment of South African wines by influential international
commentators and critics. Consequently, the contribution that these three wines
and their makers have made to further improving the status and standing of
South African wines on the international stage cannot be underestimated or
lauded highly enough.
For further
information contact:
Adoro Wines: Ian Naudé – 083 630 3794
Vuurberg: Donovan Rall – 072 182 7571
Alheit Vineyards: Chris Alheit – 083 274 6860