Enjoying wine with the Biodynamic calendar

Wednesday, 9 April, 2014
Joakim Hansi Blackadder
I think most waiters, barmen and sommeliers have opened a bottle of wine they have been serving daily for a period of time to discover that; “it doesn’t taste great, but there is not really anything wrong with it”, or, “wow, this wine is really showing nicely today”.

These time requiring reflections are of course likely to occur in the beginning of service rather than at peak time. What intrigues me is that in my experience these effects are evident across all wines at that particular time, independent of it being a “good” or “bad” day. This has made me experiment quite a bit with trying to hit the peaks of enjoyment according to the biodynamic calendar.

Just a short introduction to the concept of biodynamics; it is based on the teachings of the famous Austrian philosopher Rudolph Steiner (1861-1925). Rudolph’s teachings in agriculture sprung out of farmers concern about degrading soil conditions and deterioration of health and quality of crop and livestock from the use of chemical fertilizers. Very simplified, it is an organic approach to viticulture with a holistic and often spiritual view.

The idea is that everything living is linked to the greater cosmos and the flow of energy in between. The sun, moon and planets in relation to the constellations creates constantly changing conditions linked to the four elements; fire, earth, air and water. Each of the four elements in turn is linked to the affinity set of a plant; fruit/seeds (fire), flower (air), leaf/stem (water), root (earth). These factors were develop into a sowing and planting calendar by Maria Thun (1922-2012), with a Southern Hemisphere version published yearly by the Biodynamic Agricultural Association of Southern Africa, who can also provide a more detailed explanation of above. (www.bdaasa.org.za).

So when should I drink my good wines?

Even though the effects are evident across all wines, aromatic and fragrant varieties tend to be the most sensitive to the mood swings of the calendar, as is higher quality wine as opposed to lower quality wine (or just more evident). Vines that are farmed according to the biodynamics also adhere to the four elements below in a much more advanced state than conventionally farmed vines, and thus the wine produced from them.

Fruit days – as it sounds like, shows great fruit expression. It gives more of a weighty and concentrated impression than what the flower day below does. This is especially a good day for when you serve a wine that could arguably be over-matured or have a wood component that is a bit too evident.

Flower days – the best day to taste wine on, everything shows more of an ethereal fragrance and elegance. Aromatic varieties show especially well, try to drink (or sell) your expensive Pinot Noir’s on flower days.

Leaf days – This is a period that seems to exaggerate reductive characters so avoid overt versions. If there is a hint of greenness in the wine, it normally shows itself more, but this could also be due to a lower appearance of fruit.

It is worthwhile to note that wines that are pure, ripe, fruit driven and a bit too young seem to behave a bit more subtly and are more enjoyable for immediate consumption.

Root days – This is the worst of the days as it exaggerates wood, harshness and bitterness (this along with the absence of fruit once again). Root days also changes the textural feel of a wine and tannins behave far more angular.

It is a day for drinking simplistic, soft and fruit forward wines with low wood content. Don’t open anything expensive.

For experimental reasons;

- Select two bottles of something youthful (to avoid bottle variations) and of a decent quality level; possibly a Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling or a Pinot Noir.

- Taste a satisfactory portion of wine on any of the following days in both categories; Root (4 April, 14-15 April), Flower (7 April, 17 April)

- Make sure it is a newly opened bottle both days to ensure an accurate comparison.

- Take notes of the wine (mental, or maybe a written one for the very serious tester), and perhaps try it blind on someone else, might be a fun and objective result.

Have fun!