In 2007 Tanzer had scored Morgenster Reserve 2002 at 91+ and his re-rating shows that it has aged beautifully and is revealing more layers each year. He reinforced its aging potential by commenting: “There’s no rush to drink this highly complex, still-unfolding wine, which may well go on for another decade. Drink dates 2020-2032.”
Tanzer rated Morgenster Reserve 2010 at 92+ points. He commented: Bright
red-ruby. Knockout floral nose combines dark raspberry, cassis, graphite, shoe
polish, spicy oak and licorice. Wonderfully pliant, fresh and deep; ripe but
dry and powerful, with intense cherry, dark berry and earth flavors lifted by a
violet quality and enlivened by brisk acidity (6.8 grams per liter!). Finishes
with firm but sweet tannins and terrific persistence. This impeccably balanced,
multilayered, generous wine will need time in bottle to express itself; it may
well merit an even higher score by the early 2020s.
Morgenster
Lourens River Valley 2010 Tanzer rated at
90 points. His comments: Saturated ruby-red. Vibrant aromas of blackberry,
licorice, shoe polish, clove, anise, minerals and herbs. Juicy, suave and
pliant on the palate, with nicely delineated berry and licorice flavors
complicated by herbs and spices. Finishes firmly tannic and persistent. Cheval
Blanc director Pierre Lurton is consulting winemaker here, which may help to
explain this wine's inner-mouth energy. Drink dates: 2016 – 2023.
Tanzer’s comments on Morgenster Reserve 2003: I was also able to re-taste the 2003
version and it was a stunner: Deep red-ruby. Sexy, sweet aromas of red berries,
mocha, coffee bean and lead pencil had me thinking of Bordeaux's Right Bank.
Plush and generous, with sweet red berry and milk chocolate flavors complicated
by insidious coffee and herb nuances. Finishes very smooth and long, with
resolved tannins. This actually tastes drier than its 2.5 g/l r.s. There's no
rush to drink this highly complex, still-unfolding wine, which may well go on
for another decade. I scored it 93 points. Drink dates: 2020 – 2032.
Available from the Estate, www.morgenster.co.za, retail outlets in South Africa, and internationally.
Approximate retail selling prices: Morgenster Reserve
2010 - R320; Morgenster Reserve 2003 - R420; Morgenster Lourens River Valley
2010 - R155.