Discovering the first empire of South American wine in Peru

Friday, 8 April, 2016
Amanda Barnes
Wine journalist Amanda Barnes is on a mission to travel around the world in 80 harvests: visiting 80 wine regions all over the globe to undercover their secrets and what makes them unique. Her first harvest takes her to Ica, Peru.

Peru might not be the very first South American country to spring to mind for wine, but it was in fact the first. The Spanish colonisers wasted little time before planting their first vines on arrival in the mid 1500s, which marked the beginning of Peru’s modern history as a wine producer.

The first vineyards were planted up in the heights of Cusco, near the mecca of Incan Peru - Machu Picchu. However planting was easier in lower lands towards the coast and so the wine mecca soon became Ica, a warm region surrounded by sand dunes and watered by the mountain rivers running through. To this day, Ica is the top spot for wine production in Peru and is also home to the national brandy, Pisco.

On the 14th parallel, the biggest challenge for Ica is producing quality wine with extreme sunshine and warmth. The climate lends itself very nicely to growing grapes high in sugar which are ideal to make equally high in alcohol Pisco; however winemakers have also seen late-ripening varieties with thick skins like Petit Verdot and Tannat adapt well here to create an interesting portfolio of wines.
 

Taste

Here are the varieties and some of the producers to look out for:

  • Petit Verdot (Tacama, Don Manuel)
    Traditionally used as a backbone for blending, Petit Verdot is rarely seen alone - yet in Ica it takes on a much more approachable, yet still dark, character. A top wine from Peru’s oldest winery, Tacama. 
  • Ancellotta (Vista Alegre, Don Jorge)
    An unlikely Italian variety, Ancellotta works well in Ica offering a mature and ripe nose with a spicy finish and good acidity. Another long-running winery in Peru, Vista Alegre dates back to 1857.
  • Quebranta (Pepe Mouillaza, Quebrada de Ihuanco)
    Winemaker Pepe Moquillaza is on the road to revolution in Peru’s wine scene, and Quebrada de Ihuano is his first apostle. Made from the Pisco grape, Quebranta, the wine is tawny coloured with complex aromas and an attractive structure. It is unlike any other wine on the market in Peru so far, although hold on tight because this harvest he’s producing four more wines from Pisco varieties.

 
Eat

Peru is a hotbed of great cuisine. Renowned as one of the top gastronomy destinations in the world, Peru’s capital, Lima, is a foodie’s paradise. Make sure to try plenty of local dishes including Ceviche, Lomo Saltado (spicy stir fried beef) and Cuy (spit-roast guinea pig).

A top restaurant pick in Lima is Central, the flagship of young gun chef Virgilio Martinez who is a master of reinterpreting native ingredients and elevating them to a new level.

In Ica proper, you’ll find more local restaurants serving up hearty dishes of Peruvian favourites. Try La Olla de Juanita to experience a popular local eatery where the plates are even fuller than the bursting-at-the-seams restaurant.
 

Sleep

Stay between the vines at Quierolo wine resort. Just outside of the town of Ica, you’ll have a vista of the vineyards and wine tasting on hand for your stay. Enjoy an afternoon siesta by the swimming pool as your soak up the eternal Ica sunshine.

  
Do

When in Peruvian wine country, you have to visit the oldest winery in South America - Tacama. Founded in 1540, there is plenty of history here and the winery is well-equipped for tourism (a rarity in Peru) with an explanatory video, professional tasting room, restaurant and an outdoors folkloric dance each day at midday.

For adventurists, step into the sand bowl town of Huacachina where you can try out a sand buggy and sand boarding.


To find out more and follow the adventure, visit www.80harvests.com

wine.co.za is delighted to be partnering with Amanda and you can keep abreast of the goings-on in our Spotlight page. 

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Harvesting in Ica
Harvesting in Ica

Ica wine region
Ica wine region

Quebrada de Ihuanco
Quebrada de Ihuanco

Central Restaurant
Central Restaurant

Quierolo wine resort
Quierolo wine resort

Tacama
Tacama



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