Oak, too, is seldom new, though it is more evident in the Luna de Miel Chardonnay Reserve 2015, where, as yet, the nose is shrouded in oak, though the dusty, sawmill note fades slowly to reveal stone fruit steeliness. On warming, the richer, more tropical notes come through, with some minerality. Full bodied, the palate also offers a whack of wood, and only slowly does the fruit reveal itself. Time is a key factor in this wine and it is not a ‘drink now’ proposition. There is delicate fruit there, pear, a whiff of passion fruit and soft yellow fruits, which open on the palate to become quite rich and decadent – and behind it a firm flintiness and mineral grip. One to open in five years’ time (drink 2018-2025 86/100).
The reds are an exciting proposition, though. The Minelli Pinot Noir Reserve 2012 has considerable depth, and offers thick, velvety aromas of winter red berries. The nose is weighty, with spice and lean cherry and strawberry notes, layered and heady. The wine is bright at first, with fresh acidity, then opens on the palate and smoothers with silky fruits. There is richness and perfume and the wine is evocative and offers savoury grip with layered fruit complexity. Oak is deftly handled and though this is on the muscular side for a Pinot, definitely not shy, it finishes with a lingering, haunting fruit intensity. Medium bodied, this is a winter Pinot, showing the characteristic ‘ploughed field’ aromas of previous Avontuur Pinots, full of game, hedgerow and mixed red berry spiciness. A serious, perfumed and decadent wine (drink now-2026 92/100).
The Dominion Royale Shiraz Reserve 2012 shows over-ripe plums and smoky bacon, with hints of game and a crispness that seems like lean red currants - it really is a ‘heady’ wine. The palate is full and dense but there is acidity there, keeping it firm and fresh. Flavours of currants, plum and mulberry with that thread of game and spicy herb bite smoother the back of the mouth and linger on swallowing. This is a nice bridge between New World fruit luxury and Old World savoury restraint and rusticity. There is leather, spice and deep dark fruit medley here, and a classic hint of damp stable, edging its elegance toward the Rhône. A sumptuous wine, persistent and compelling, drinking nicely now and difficult to imagine wanting anything more when tasted on a wet winter’s evening (drink now-2025 93/100).
Jan thinks the Chardonnay could be enjoyed over the next three years and the reds over the next five, but I would be happy to enjoy these two in ten years’ time.