Arguably, it is the most successful wine destination in South Africa, combining a restaurant, deli, bakery and production of 40 wines from some 30 varieties, including Tempranillo, Cinsault, Sangiovese, Barbera, Roussanne, Verdelho, Tannat and Mourvѐdre, many of which are consistent award winners. And the most photographed Goats in the country.
There are other wine farms that offer similar, true, but as my afternoon’s host convinced me, no other receives the number of visitors that Fairview does. One look into the Tasting Room convinced me, it is out of peak season now, but some 50 people (I counted) were at the tasting podiums.
I booked for the Master Tasting which combines eight cheeses matched to eight wines offered in the Beryl Back Room. Fairview has been in the family since 1937 (it was established in 1693) and Beryl was present winemaking legend Charles’ mother.
Beryl’s Tasting Room is a welcome respite from the bustle of the main tasting room and offers a calm, reflective space amongst beautiful Cape Dutch architecture. Tables are prettily prepared and you feel individually catered for; even if the room is busy, and it regularly fills up.
In front of me were one-bite sized cubes of Fairview’s various cheeses, with bread baked that morning and olive oil from the Estate. The ‘Sommelier’s Choice’ began with a Darling sourced Sauvignon Blanc 2016, to go with Chevin Traditional 100% Goat’s milk cheese and worried I might get it wrong I asked how to approach this. “Wine first, then the cheese, then wine to cleanse”. The logic was sound, especially with creamy cheeses which could coat the palate and change the wine. The match worked, the Sauvignon was full enough, packed a flavour punch and the cheese controlled any excess acidity nicely.
A Semillon next, again from Darling, the Bloemcool Groendruif 2015, sumptuous despite its youth and the Sweet Chilli and Lime cheese just about did its job, though not as successfully as the previous, I felt. Third came a Paarl Chenin Blanc 2016 and Double Cream Camembert, but the wine was too young and raw to do any damage. Staff assured me it was ready and we had a friendly debate about a belief that, “Chenin doesn’t go beyond ten years”. I haven’t found this and though I tried I couldn’t change their opinion.
Two gorgeous wines followed, the Stok By Paaltjie Grenache 2014 with Chevin Black Pepper Paprika cheese and the Pegleg Carignan 2014 with Sundried Tomato and Herb Cream cheese. These wines don’t need cheese, or food, or company, or anything. The Grenache is elegant, layered and it was still orbiting my mouth ten minutes later, a very classy wine; a 93 pointer. The peppered cheese overpowered the wine, the pepper cutting into the soft nuances of the wine and dominating it. The second match was much happier, the Carignan was rich and brooding and so intense. With the cheese, “It’s like they merge together in harmony” I said. My host put it perfectly, “they complete each other”. Hedonism was achieved when she suggested the wine with pork belly.
Fairview (Charles Back) introduced Petit Syrah (actually Durif but labelled here Petit Shiraz) to South Africa 13 years ago and this 2014 version had classic rustic earthy notes which coped better with the Peppato cheese, though the cheese’s pepper crust again changed the wine’s profile. The seventh pairing was a challenge to my hesitation for many current Pinotages. The Primo Pinotage 2014 single vineyard effort was totally delicious. Silky, complex, violets and plums and with Brie de Roche blended cow and goat cheese this was a happy place. The two were of one mind and mine was opened again to Pinotage which at its best seems to have the very best of Cabernet, Merlot and Shiraz combined.
Finally, came the Eenzaamheid Shiraz 2014 and Blue Tower cheese. Another wine from Paarl grown on Swartland shale soils and seriously good. Hints of blackberry and forest floor with silky fine tannins, I nearly forgot the cheese, but it worked as a combination and the wine was still king.
Fairview constantly change their range of cheeses and such pairings change with it. My host said the point was not to show how you should match wines, but to offer suggestions and let the taster form their own opinions and if they feel some pairs worked better than others then that is alright with them. Cheese portions could be more generous, I found myself wanting to do a second taste often but couldn’t – enough for a second nibble would be a suggestion. Despite this, I found it worthwhile and as with so many other nougat and chocolate and Biltong and cupcake with wine pairings, showed just how versatile and surprising Cape wines are.
