After poor clones and imposter imports, this grape has come a long way in 30 years. When planted in the right place, South African Chardonnay can produce world-class wines, says Tim Atkin MW.
The judges:
Tim Atkin MW, John Hoskins MW & Greg Sherwood MW
The judges found South Africa’s stylistic reputation as being halfway between the Old World and New World was upheld in this tasting.
Hoskins said, ‘Producers have understood there’s a need to not be in the “old” New World of heavy, oaky Chardonnay, but neither should they be clichéd by launching into a ubiquitous “new” New World, modern, ultra-sulphidic style with 12.5% alcohol wines that lack joy and any Chardonnay character.’
Top five South African Chardonnays of the tasting:
Ataraxia, Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge, Chardonnay, Walker Bay, 2015
A lovely pure peach stone nose with white flower notes, creamy but not heavy. Expertly judged oak flows across a wonderfully...
Thelema Mountain Vineyards, Sutherland Chardonnay, 2015
Struck match complexity on the nose, which mingles with green pears and dusty granitic minerality. It is dense, smoky and mineral. Spice and...
Richard Kershaw, Clonal Selection Chardonnay, Elgin, 2014
A dusty, briny nose unfolds celestially onto fleshy and opulent fruit. A splendid integration of oak aromatics lingers around the nose. The palate is...
Rustenberg, Chardonnay, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2015
An impressive Stellenbosch Chardonnay that wouldn’t look out of place in Corton-Charlemagne with its complex leesy character. A mosaic of...
Paul Cluver, Seven Flags Chardonnay, Elgin, 2015
Exotic aromas play with creamy melted lemon butter, herbs and citrus zest alongside layers of wet grey slate minerality. The palate has...
A late start
Chardonnay didn’t turn up in South Africa until the 1920s, when it was planted in an experimental vineyard at the University of Stellenbosch. The chosen clone was a flop, but that was the material that was propagated and planted in the 1970s, when interest in Chardonnay began to develop.
Since 1992, producers have been free to plant where they want in the Cape – they were subject to stringent quotas before that – and that has resulted in the development of the sort of cool-climate areas, especially in Elgin, the Overberg and Walker Bay, where Chardonnay performs at its best.
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