Dale says that each year The Winery succeeds in building a higher profile internationally for premium South African Chenin Blanc.
“As none of the world’s other wine-producing regions (except the Loire Valley) is significantly active with this varietal, this is a major opportunity for SA to create and own this sector of the international wine market with unique, premium wines.”
The quality of the 2005 vintage, he states, will contribute to The Winery’s vision of being one of the foremost producers in raising the profile of South Africa’s Chenin Blancs abroad and locally.
Vinum Africa Chenin Blanc 2004 was rated Best Buy by the two leading US magazines, The Wine Spectator and the Wine Enthusiast, and the 2005 earned four-star and good-value ratings in the John Platter 2006 guide.
In the Wine Enthustiast’s review late last year of South Africa’s Chenin Blancs, Vinum African Chenin Blanc 2004, The Winery of Good Hope Chenin Blanc 2005, and the Chenin-dominated Black Rock white blend 2004, helped earn The Winery the accolade of being the overall highest-scoring South African Chenin Blanc producer – scoring an average of more than 90 points for its wines.
Dale says that, as one of the drivers behind the Chenin Blanc renaissance in SA, “this recognition illustrates our focus on Chenin’s quality production from vine to bottle, irrespective of price range.”
“It is most gratifying for us to earn such recognition in the intensely competitive leading wine markets internationally and we intend to put this to good use in furthering our development in the SA market.”
“We believe quality doesn’t have to come with an exorbitant price tag. This helps us market successfully overseas while in SA we have set out, conversely, to demonstrate that Chenin Blanc can be positioned in premium ranges.”
He believes that Chenin Blanc is still grossly under-rated by local winemakers and consumers. “Eminent overseas wine commentators, such as Jancis Robinson and Robert Parker, increasingly single out SA Chenin Blancs for praise, but locally there is still far too little recognition of the revitalisation of this varietal.”
Chenin Blanc has yet to be given the respect it deserves, he says. This is probably because, for decades, its versatility and ubiquitousness meant it was considered a workhorse and was not valued in its own right.
“Chenin Blanc is the single greatest viticultural asset we have in South Africa. It makes spectacular styles - from dry to desert wines to MCC. There is a huge reserve of fabulous old vineyards, unequalled by any other varietal in SA, red or white.”
Dale says that, in the Cape, Chenin Blanc has established a natural harmony with its environment. There is very little leaf roll virus to be found and the old bushvines tolerate hot, dry summers because of their hardy, deep root systems. The more recent plantings of ‘noble varieties’ on trellis and drip irrigation do not have this advantage.
“To be appreciated it needs viticulturists and winemakers to understand its potential, have the skill to entice this out through a respectful approach to their viticulture and winemaking, and have the confidence to add value to this stunning varietal.”
The Vinum Africa Chenin Blanc 2005 was made from low-yielding old bushvines, on the south-westerly and south-easterly slopes of the Helderberg in the Stellenbosch region. The very mineral subsoils and the mature vines' deep root systems are reflected in the finesse and the minerality of the wine. The vines’ harmony with their environment was essential in the heat and drought of the 2005 vintage.
“Our aim for Vinum Africa is to produce an idiosyncratic Chenin Blanc that is restrained, taut, elegant with a touch of flintiness and plenty of length. We believe that those who insist that a premium Chenin Blanc needs to be markedly oaked are misguided. Why turn it into a boring Chardonnay clone?”
“Less than 5% of our juice was transferred for fermentation and maturation into small, new Burgundian barrels. Extensive lees contact, stirring and maturation was conducted in both this and the tank fermented component, allowing the wine to retain vitality in the fruit, minerality, steely acidity and abundant aromatic concentration – as would be expected from smashing old vines.”
“The lees are also the wine’s genetic link to its site and are hugely significant in making wines that reflect their origin.”
The Winery has used Vinum Africa’s packaging to promote its African roots. The stylised ethnic logo gives a clear sense of Africa without being a cliché. In an abstract style it spells the wine’s name.
“We wanted an appearance that is timeless, elegant and durable - something that would gain strength with age. Now, coupled with the screwcap, it still looks fresh and, having discontinued with cork closures, we dumped the obvious flaw,” he says.
With SA Chenin Blanc attracting increasing attention overseas, there is still considerable work to be done to take the South African wine consumer up-market with this varietal, Dale concludes. “Wines like this can only help.”
The Winery Tel: +27 21 855-5528
Fax: +27 21 855-5529
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