What is Pinotage?

Thursday, 6 July, 2017
The Back Label, Kim Bussing
For those unfamiliar with Pinotage, it probably sounds like an obscure French grape that can’t hold up to its more universally beloved cousins; if you have heard of it, you’d probably stay away. The South African grape has been suffering from a bad reputation for over twenty years – it’s about time those misconceptions are reversed.

Abraham Perold would agree. It’s 1925, and Perold, a South African chemist, is frustrated. The oenologist has brought over 177 varietals to the country, but his efforts to grow Pinot Noir were met with difficulties as the grape struggled in the new climate. While trying to get his wine fix and drawing on his knowledge of wine, he observed Cinsaut (or Hermitage, a red wine grape still popular in France), which thrived in the climate but didn’t bring the coveted taste of Pinot Noir. Seeing an opportunity, he combined them in his garden, and Pinotage was born.

Though it was as productive as Cinsault, Pinotage wasn’t the Pinot Noir substitute Perold was hoping for. The grape was very dark, loaded with tannins, anthocyanin, and cyanidin (the latter two are pigments), and primarily boasted notes of blackberry, tobacco, mocha, and plum, with the tannins providing a sweeter, smoky finish. Depending on its age and what wood is used during fermentation, you might also find bacon, red licorice, and sweet and sour sauce. A far cry from its progenitor’s light, low-tannic wine and red fruit notes, but a success nonetheless.

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