Cool culinary spree

Monday, 27 July, 2015
Graham Howe
Graham Howe visits four leading restaurants in the Constantia Wine Valley that are drawing visitors to the cellar-door in the city’s backyard with new venues, chefs, menus and wine lists.

An innovative selection of wines by the glass at restaurants is a growing trend. Yet many wine-lists still encourage diners to up-spend on a bottle rather than tempt consumers to chance a glass of a new label, alternate variety or emerging cellar. (And waiters often take your wine order before you decide on what you are going to eat.) Ordering wine by the glass means your party can mix ‘n match wine to each course - and make the wine-list as much a culinary journey of exploration as the menu itself.

Wine by the glass etiquette uncorks its own issues. Should the wine be poured at table? If open already, when was the bottle opened - and how are open wines preserved? Wine by the glass was highlighted at the inaugural Sommeliers Selection awards, announced at Open Door restaurant at Constantia Uitsig in June 2015. Judged by members of the SA Sommeliers Association, winners across fourteen categories structured like a wine list - eg, full and rich, fresh and juicy, elegant and classy, house wines, MCC, etc - were awarded wine by the glass trophies selected from 400 entries.

Restaurateur Neil Grant says sommeliers can play an important role by encouraging diners to try new wines - rather than stick to their old favourites in the comfort zone (even if he has to replace the wine if not to the customer’s satisfaction). As an experienced sommelier he should know. We talked over lunch at Open Door, his brand-new restaurant on the former premises of The River Café at Constantia Uitsig - his wine list demonstrates how an innovative wine selection by the glass - including a special sommeliers selection - encourages consumers to quaff on the wild side. 

We were drinking Ivory White 2014 - a luscious blend of Grenache Blanc and Viognier from JH Meyer in the Swartland - one of the new releases on the excellent wine-list divided into categories like “interesting whites (and reds)”. The white list at Open Door showcases alternative varieties like Dirty Julie Verdelho, Leeuwenkuil Marsanne, TSW Grenache Blend, The Foundry Grenache Blanc and B Vintners Muscat de Alexandrie - as well as many niche labels inter alia Blake’s (Swartland), Driehoek (Cederberg), Seasmoke (Durbanville), Hannay (Elgin), Beeslaar (Stellenbosch) and Simelia (Wellington). The varietal selections are inspired, especially in Chenin, Merlot and Pinot Noir (Try Fist of Fancy Pinot/McGregor - or Donkiesbaai Pinot).

Open Door is a stunning new venue in the Constantia Wine Valley - with a new tasting room for Constantia Uitsig opening nearby later in the year. Opening a 180-seater in mod-winter in the Cape takes courage. Living up to its name, Open Door has opened up the century-old heritage venue, from the bar and open-plan kitchen to the deck, chic interior and vineyard views. The culinary accent is contemporary bistro fare on a menu created by Annemarie Steenkamp - executive chef at sister Burrata and Bocca - along with breakfast, café and child menus. I enjoyed the classic flavours of tuna gravlax, poached crayfish and slow-cooked lamb neck in the comfort zone - and a sublime cheesecake (and divine chocolate torte) from star pastry chef Christine de Villiers (ex Le Quartier Francais), who runs the bakery. Watch this space.

I have enjoyed four of the best meals of 2015 on my tasting circuit on the Constantia wine route. Bistro Sixteen82 at Steenberg is another winery restaurant which has had a makeover this year. The chic wine bar - one of the most stylish tasting venues at the cellar-door - and stunning restaurant terrace in the vineyards remains the same. But new chef Kerry Kilpin (who worked under Franck Dangereux at The Food Barn and La Colombe), brings culinary flair to one of the top bistros in the Cape winelands.

This rising star of what she calls “the neo-bistro” scene created one of the best food-and-wine pairing menus of the season at the recent launch of Steenberg’s new vintages. We enjoyed Kerry’s sublime menu of langoustine risotto and mussel veloute with The Black Swan Sauvignon Blanc 2013, salmon, scallop carpaccio and oysters with Steenberg Semillon 2013, five-spice springbok tataki with Catharina 2013, and seared citrus duck with the flagship Magna Carta 2012 - and Magna Carta sorbet 2015 made from the freshly pressed grape juice. Winemaker JD Pretorius and GM John Loubser traced the evolution of Steenberg’s wine style - in assemblage and oaking.

The art of food and wine matching is often arbitrary, indifferent or too overwrought. A good pairing should complement and highlight flavours with simplicity and subtlety. The signature mineral, flinty, savoury and steely acidity of Steenberg white wines are classically matched with ingredients like shellfish and seafood sourced from the same cool-climate maritime terroir, with an umami spin. Or in the case of the reds, say mushroom dishes to match the earthy, smoky, forest floor flavours of the reds. Chef Garth Almazan of Catharina’s at Steenberg is a whiz at seafood and ‘shrooms.

La Colombe, a renowned destination restaurant in the Constantia Wine Valley, is a newcomer of sorts, after upping and moving from Constantia Uitsig to Silvermist Vineyards on Constantia Nek late last year. Since stepping into the big crocs of chef Luke Dale-Roberts (who opened The Test Kitchen - rated #28 on the World’s Best 50 Restaurants in 2015) five years ago - chef Scott Kirton has made his own mark. Lunch at La Colombe was the highlight of my own culinary perambulations around the winelands in the first half of this year. The dizzying drive up to chef’s new eyrie - past the source of Silvermist Organic Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2014 - offers some of the most spectacular vineyard views in the Cape. What a dramatic setting. It reminded me of the new sushi and wine bar at Beau Constantia I tried late last year.

At La Colombe, I enjoyed catching up with renowned winemaker Peter Finlayson over a tasting of the newest releases of his Bouchard Finlayson wines. We paired Blanc de Mer 2014 (a Riesling-led five-way blend) with starters of west coast oysters poached in MCC, Scott’s stunning tuna with ponzu, citrus and shitake, cleverly presented in La Colombe’s own branded cans - and signature Alaskan snow crab and yellowtail ceviche. The plating is very playful, with seafood on glass rocks and sea-shells - and the combinations inventive but still classic and never “OTT” - say scallops and sweetbreads with curried snoek veloute. It paired well with Missionvale Chardonnay 2013, an elegant wine with tangy citrus marmalade and a clean finish.

Every dish on the menu at La Colombe is paired with an interesting choice of wine by the glass - say scallops and sweetbreads with Vondeling Babiana, ostrich tataki with Tormentoso Mourvedre and sous vide Karoo lamb with Bouchard Finlayson’s Hannibal 2013. The menu is one of the most original I’ve sampled in a long time - from the confit duck and Jerusalem artichoke soup to a trio of Oak Valley acorn-fed pork (belly, loin and shoulder) served with smoked apple puree, Calvados and apple jus. Complementing the earthy dish were, the dark fruit, spice and fecund forest floor flavours of Galpin Peak Pinot Noir and Tête de Cuvée (2005 won Platter Wine of the Year in 2008) - Robert Parker said, “The best wine I’ve tasted out of South Africa).

“2005 was a stellar year for us. We haven’t had a five star Pinot Noir in the last five years in Platter” says Peter (who does win a close 4,5 stars every year for both Galpin Peak Pinot Noirs, Hannibal and Kaaimansgat Chardonnay, and four stars for the rest. “Five stars = a 30% increase in sales. We sometimes get criticised for making Pinot that is too compact, too tight. Well the 2013 Tête du Cuvée is not typically compact - and we’re trying to get more Nebbiolo into our Hannibal. You know we sold 120 cases of our Blanc de Mer 2012 to Moulin Rouge in Paris! I last went there in 1975!”

My Constantia culinary spree ended at The Conservatory at The Cellars-Hohenort. Chef Delia Harbottle has created a three course winter menu tempting with signature dishes like her double-baked Underberg cheese soufflé and squid linguini Nero - perfectly paired with Reyneke Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2013 by new, renowned sommelier Tatiana Marcetteau. The sunny glasshouse and garden restaurant brightened up a chilly winter’s day - as did a glass of Constantia Glen Five, a five-way Bordeaux-style flagship which complemented the grass-fed sirloin with kitchen garden veggies, heirloom carrots, triple -cooked chips - and a decadent chocolate fondant. Who could ask for more apart from Vin de Hohenort dessert wine from their own Muscat vines - or chef Tempelhoff’s Yardstick wines made by Adam Mason? 

Another day I’ll revisit the other two culinary landmarks of the Constantia Wine Valley: Edgar Osojik’s Buitenverwachting and Peter Tempelhoff’s The Greenhouse at The Cellars. The Greenhouse is closed until mid-August for renovations and expansion. When it re-opens, the culinary makeover of Constantia, a gourmet destination in the city’s backyard, will be up and ready for the new season. The valley even has a new farmstall called Chardonnay Deli on its culinary map - despite the fact that Sauvignon Blanc is undoubtedly the cool-climate star of this historic terroir.

Graham Howe

Graham Howe is a well-known gourmet travel writer based in Cape Town. One of South Africa's most experienced lifestyle journalists, he has contributed hundreds of food, wine and travel features to South African and British publications over the last 25 years.

He is a wine and food contributor for wine.co.za, which is likely the longest continuous wine column in the world, having published over 500 articles on this extensive South African wine portal. Graham also writes a popular monthly print column for WineLand called Howe-zat.

When not exploring the Cape Winelands, this adventurous globetrotter reports on exotic destinations around the world as a travel correspondent for a wide variety of print media, online, and radio.

Over the last decade, he has visited over seventy countries on travel assignments from the Aran Islands and the Arctic to Borneo and Tristan da Cunha - and entertained readers with his adventures through the winelands of the world from the Mosel to the Yarra.