To be accredited by the Swiss-based international body,
Société Générale de Surveillance (SGS), the vines had to be farmed organically for at least three years. The
Chardonnay was planted in 1998 and the
Sangiovese, a year later. Both have been farmed organically since 2001 and deliver low yields.
Says Tukulu viticulturist Adian Fry: "The vines have reached sufficient maturity to deliver fruit of rich concentration that shows very clearly in both wines. We are very fortunate in having ideal climatic conditions on the farm so that very little intervention is required to maintain the optimal health of the vines. A relatively cool climate, mostly dry weather but enough rain to sustain the vines in deep, well-drained Tukulu soils, cooling maritime winds and a protective range of hillocks, all contribute to excellent growing conditions."
“Farming this way enables us to promote diversity, biological cycles and soil biological activity.” Water is conserved and weeds controlled by planting cover crops between rows. A policy of integrated pest management is followed throughout the farm and many areas of the 975 hectare property remain uncultivated in a bid to preserve the abundant biodiversity present here.
Deidre Samson, marketing manager of the Cape Legends portfolio, which markets Tukulu says: “There is a perception amongst some consumers that organic wines, while perhaps a healthier option, don’t always deliver on taste or complexity. This is definitely not the case here. These are well-structured, beautifully balanced wines that stand up easily to their non-organic counterparts on aroma, taste and palate length. They need make no apologies for being organic.”
The Chardonnay was entirely wood-fermented, spending six months on the lees in a combination of first and second-fill French 300 litre oak barrels. “It is a medium-bodied wine with lively citrus and nutty flavours, a pronounced fruitiness and vibrant acidity. On the nose you can pick up a pronounced minerality, nuts and notes of citrus and peach. Its palate is sparked by flashes of orange and toasted nuts.”
Samson says the success of the wine lies predominantly in the beautifully balanced fruit, with sugars and acids in perfect harmony. “The cellars have tried to reflect that balance in the judicious use of wood to create a well-integrated composite.”
Sangiovese, thought to be indigenous to Tuscany, thrives in hot, dry climates and is well suited to the dryland growing conditions at Papkuilsfontein. The fruit here produces elegant wines with aromas of strawberries, plums and violets, complemented by sweet vanilla spice from ageing in mostly French oak.
The wine spent nine months in a combination of new, second and third-fill oak. It is medium in body and makes for very easy drinking.
Although organic wines are still in their infancy in South Africa, they are expected to grow, says Samson. “Currently there are 66 wines certified as organic featured in the
2008 John Platter South African Wine Guide of a total of 6,064 wines listed. The organic wine market is climbing internationally as consumers take greater responsibility for maintaining a healthy lifestyle and because they believe in supporting sustainable agricultural practices. Already in Europe and North America there are wine shops that specialise in organic wines and many of the multiple grocers are extending their offerings of organic foodstuffs to meet rising consumer demand. The growth in demand for organic merchandise locally is a clear indication that South Africans do want to participate in a global trend.”
The 2007 Tukulu Chardonnay is expected to retail at R55 a 750ml bottle and the 2006 Sangiovese, at R75.