Albert has a
passion for wines with identity, where terroir shines through and where winemaking
intervention, such as oak, plays a minor supportive role. The best address
wines feature varietals perfectly matched to terroir and are unique to that
place. ‘Address wines’ are crucial in today’s market, Albert believes,
“Stellenbosch, producing around 10 tons per hectare, can’t compete with
Robertson, producing 30. Their costs are different. So if there is a Chardonnay
on the shelf at R40 from Stellenbosch and R30 from Robertson, the R30 will
sell”. Albert believes the way forward is not to sell ‘Chardonnay’, but to sell
‘Stellenbosch wine’. Wines from Elgin, Swartland and Constantia, among others,
bear out his argument. Place sells. He cites great wines from the 70’s which
featured their origin on the label, often with varietals not even mentioned. “Bordeaux,
Burgundy, Champagne are place wines, their origin is defined”.
After studying
Oenology, and after several vintages abroad during his seven years at
Lammershoek, fate intervened. In fact, fate had already brought Albert to
Cordoba in the Helderberg in 1999 where he met his future wife (they
honeymooned picking grapes in Champagne) and where they now live and hope to
make the centre of their winemaking business. This stroke of fate in 2006 was a
conversation in Franshhoek with Gerrit Maritz, a lawyer who had fallen in love
with Champagne (and drank it through his student days whilst others sipped
their Brandy and Coke) and had a desire to make it. The two agreed to create
something very special in a single conversation, with Gerrit building a cellar
under his home big enough to mature 30,000 bottles. Albert sources grapes from
14 sites, constantly travelling between Swartland, Bonnievale, Robertson, Elgin
and Bottelary to monitor and select for the GM&AHRENS MCC. They create
around 4-5000 bottles a year, sometimes less (1800 in 2010) and will not
compromise on quality. The wine spends 1 year on its lees in barrel, then a
further 2 ½ - 3 years on its lees in bottle; that is some 4 years and explains
the wines extraordinary richness. Pieter Ferreira, Graham Beck’s MCC legend,
has been involved all along; Albert says his inspiration, advice and support
has been tremendous and they still work together at assemblage and dosage
stage. Not that the ‘GM&Ahrens Vintage Cuvée Cap Classique’ gets much
dosage; “it’s next to nothing, maybe up to a gram per litre”. The packaging
reflects their belief in wine being, “not just a drink, but an experience”. It
comes in packs of five only, the 2011 in a superb hat box presentation and
despite the price tag of R2,650 the 2010 sold out in 193 days. There
is a waiting list. This is a lifestyle product, promoted at events such as
Polo, and fashion shows. The winners of the ‘Cape to Rio’ sailing race
celebrated in Rio harbour with Albert and Gerrit’s Cuvee. “People saw the product
and ordered, in fact, people ordered the hat box then asked for wine as well,
not realizing the wine was in the box and was included in the price”, says
Albert.
With only 3.8 bar
pressure, the wine retains minute persistent bubbles and its flavours linger
so; I scored it as my top SA bubbly at 94 points and I defy anyone to disagree.
Something quite unique is soon to be announced from GM&A; undoubtedly wine
as art, and very special art, but be warned, even at more than R5000 a bottle,
45 of the 100 bottles have already been pre-sold. Albert sells his wine via
private tastings, some 40 a year, and at special events. He will fly to Jo’burg
for a private tasting at someone’s house, “do you make sales, is this
financially viable?” I ask. “Always”, smiles Albert.
Albert has six
still wines alongside his MCC. Each place driven and showcasing the best
varietals on the best terroirs, all naturally fermented. A Chenin, from single
plot 65 year old vines, with 6grams RS and an eye on Vouvray (Bottelary OVC)
together with a delicious Cabernet / Cinsualt blend (Bottelary Seventy) from
Bottelary. A Rhone white blend of mainly Roussanne and Marsanne (The WhiteBlack)
together with a Shiraz / Grenache / Mourvedre / Carignan blend (Black) from
Swartland. And from Elgin, a sensuous Pinot Noir and soon, a Riesling. “Well, I
needed something to drink while the MCC matures!” says Albert.
With some winery
consulting, driving 40,000km a year between vineyards, working his MCC in
Franshhoek, presenting dozens of tastings all over the country and creating
innovative packaging for his lifestyle products (the still wines have statement
labels and wax seals), Albert still sees more potential in creating ‘address
wines’. He gazes over vines at his Cordoba home with a glass of ‘Black’ in hand
beneath the Mountain where he proposed to Heidi. Well, it definitely is more
than a drink and he certainly offers a visual feast to match what is in the
bottle. As he says, “Everything about The Ahrens Family wines is a bit over the
top”.
If you need
convincing, check out the ‘The Bucket List’ presentation box, seven wines in a
cabinet, labelled to the buyer’s choice, such as, ‘skydive’, ‘learn to play the
guitar’ and ‘kiss in Paris’, each to be drunk when you complete the wish.