In the years since those heady early days TOKARA
Restaurant has been firmly cemented as a gourmet destination of choice in the
South African winelands.
Situated on the crest of the scenic Helshoogte pass
outside Stellenbosch the restaurant boasts superb views over the Stellenbosch
vineyards, with the deep blue waters of False Bay glittering in the distance.
Yet, while the views are unforgettable, they’re simply no match for the food.
For the fifth consecutive year the restaurant is a top
20 finalist in the annual Eat Out Mercedes-Benz Restaurant Awards, thanks to
Carstens’ innovative cuisine that blends classical techniques with a decidedly
modernist approach; seamlessly marrying both Continental and Asian influences
into a cohesive cuisine that is inimitably and unmistakably Carstens.
The restaurant’s patrons clearly agree with the
professional critics’ assessment judging by the restaurant’s recent inclusion
in the Tripadvisor.com Travellers’ Choice South Africa Fine Dining Top 10 list.
The third accolade of TOKARA Restaurant’s 2015 “Triple
Crown” is its nomination for the Eat Out Boschendal Style Awards.
Visitors to TOKARA Restaurant will discover a different
face to this landmark restaurant, with a subtle interior revamp gifting the
restaurant a fresh, modern look ahead of the summer season.
“The idea was to bring a freshness and a more modern
feeling to the space,” explains owner-operator of TOKARA Restaurant Wilhelm Kühn,
who says it’s an evolution of the space, rather than a
complete overhaul. “We haven’t gone so modern that the space will feel foreign
to regular guests.”
The creative
driving force of the new look of the restaurant was a collaboration between
TOKARA Estate owner Anne-Marie Ferreira and interior designer Samantha Fuchs.
Carpets have been replaced with cool screed floors,
while sleek cream leather chairs add a touch of elegance come evening. Striking copper light fixtures, fashioned by a
local craftsman, hang from the wooden rafters to cast an amber glow on a
collection of William Kentridge tapestries that dominate the walls.
Fuchs added that the magnificent surrounding of the
restaurant inspired the new interior.
“The
changes accentuate the natural splendour of the landscape outside the panoramic
windows of the restaurant. The idea was
for the landscape to flow seamlessly through the interior of the restaurant creating
a beautiful sense of light and space.”
Kühn lauded the efforts of the kitchen and
front-of-house team over the past five years, especially the skilled guidance
of business partners Johan Terblanche (restaurant manager) and Jaap-Henk Koelewijn
(sommelier).
“The three
of us have now been working together for almost eight years, including three
years at Jardine Restaurant in Cape Town, which is unusual in an industry with
a constantly migrating workforce. Our
collaboration with Richard over the past five years has been an inspiring
journey and professionally fulfilling”.
With the busy summer season around the corner Richard
has found new inspiration to present another unforgettable summer menu.
Available from mid-October, the revamped à la carte
offering boasts a mouth-watering collection of both brand-new creations and
Carstens classics revisited and refined.
A modernist dish of beef tartare is a work of art in
crafting textures around a dominant flavour, with everything from a natural
jelly of beef broth to puffed beef tendon offering an entirely new vision of
this Continental bistro classic. Likewise, a humble loin of venison is glazed
with apricot and cooked over the kitchen’s new wood- and charcoal-fired flame-grill.
On the side, notes of turmeric waft from the potato croquette, while
crisp spinach and a spinach and parsley purée offer yet more explorations of
flavour and texture.
Another highlight is the continued evolution of one of
Carstens’ more memorable dishes: a Franco-Japanese interpretation of fresh
seafood. Carstens has been refining this hugely popular dish since 1998, and
2015 sees a fresh West Coast oyster served in the shell with a lemon, olive and
nori vinaigrette; steamed prawn with lemon grass and soya; hake steamed with
wasabi lemon, and topped with crisped klipkombers
seaweed; mussel with anchovy cream; and calamari lifted by roast lemon
cream and togorashi.
Vegetarians are also well looked after with a selection
of inspired dishes taking meat-free dining to another level in the winelands. A
highlight is the remarkable new tomato creation that pushes the boundaries of
flavour and texture around a singular focus on fresh heirloom varieties, many
of which Carstens cultivates himself.
Desserts are no less innovative. Carstens has long been
known for his memorable savoury ice-creams that both bewilder and delight the
palate, and this year is no exception: expect the likes of buttermilk
sorbet with a parsley cream, celery sorbet and sorrel granita.
It’s an unparalleled sensory experience that begins
with yet another new offering, a carefully curated menu of pre-dinner
appetizers for diners to enjoy as they admire the striking sunset views from
the terrace.
“We’re
going to keep things simple,” says Carstens, but for this multi-faceted chef
that could mean anything from Parmesan biscuits with yoghurt and lemon zest, to
goat’s
cheese gougères. Fresh oysters
may arrive dressed with vinaigrette of ginger, soya and mirin, while turmeric
rice crisps envelop slivers of home-pickled line fish.
To mark the restaurant’s fifth anniversary the new menu
will also feature a remarkable Chef’s Menu, available from November. The
five-course feast will take diners on a culinary journey through Carstens’ time
at TOKARA, celebrating a selection of the standout dishes from the past
half-decade.
The journey begins with an amuse bouche and selection
of appetisers, including a taster portion of his delicate cured rainbow trout,
and signature Franco-Japanese interpretation of the finest local seafood.
Then it’s on to ponzu-glazed line fish with sushi rice,
avocado and bonito flakes. “It’s one of my favourite dishes of the past few
years,” says Carstens and the perfect example of the Japanese
aesthetic that has run through his cooking since first finding fame in the
1990s.
A springbok dish fragrant with the spices of bobotie
reflects Carstens’ respect for South Africa’s rich culinary heritage, as the
dining experience ends off with his innovative ‘Flavours of Lemon’, a journey
of both texture and flavour.
“I believe
a chef’s menu has to be a different offering to the à la carte,” says Carstens. “It
needs to be something special; you have to offer a different experience.”
Throw in the surfeit of modernity on the plate, and
that’s certainly no hardship. With the décor enjoying a gentle nip-tuck, and
the menu showcasing the considerable creative energy in the kitchen, TOKARA
restaurant is marking five years in the game by looking forward to the future.
TOKARA Restaurant is situated at the top of the
Helshoogte Pass, R310, Stellenbosch. For reservations call 021 885 2550; e-mail
reservations@tokara.com or visit
www.tokararestaurant.co.za
TOKARA
Restaurant is open for lunch Tuesdays to Sundays from 12h00 – 15h00 and for
dinner Tuesdays to Saturdays from 18h30 – 21h00. Kindly note that TOKARA
restaurant is a non- smoking venue.