However, exploration down varietal avenues, new and old, is nothing compared with the pushing of vinification boundaries. Wine fermented under a layer of yeast, wine in glass jars left to age in the sun and skin-fermented whites – none are new in the global wine galaxy and, in reality, not even in South Africa. But it was only in the middle of 2015 that official regulations were discussed and drawn up for six new classes of wine, skin-macerated white being one. ‘Macerated’ also includes fermentation on the skins for a minimum of 96 hours. Many have gone to far greater extremes.
Why has this method become so popular? What or who inspired local producers to experiment with skin maceration? Do white varieties generally respond positively? Keen to find answers to these and other questions, I quizzed a few of the growing number of enthusiasts.
First up is Craig Hawkins of Testalonga as he was, if not the first to experiment, one of the most high-profile exponents and he assisted the Wine and Spirit Board to draw up the new regulations. He recalls: “It was a lengthy process, taking two years, but in the end everything worked out and showed regulatory systems can be worked to the producers’ benefit.”
Continue reading.