Feminine touch makes for historic Chenin Blanc win
Thursday, 19 January, 2006
Ramsay Son & Parker
The 2006 WINE magazine TOPS at SPAR Chenin Blanc Challenge may well become a talking point for some time. Line honours went to the “shy, elegant and understated” Spier Private Collection 2004 from Stellenbosch, while the winning winemaker, Eleonor Visser, is the first woman ever to claim victory in the Challenge.
Rated 4½ Stars, the winning wine is unusual for several reasons: its style is a departure from the bolder, more ‘masculine’ expressions that usually garner kudos, it is bottled under screwcap, and it fended off worthy contenders from top Chenin producers, some of whom have won in previous years.
The Spier Private Collection 2004 created much debate among the judges before being crowned champion for 2006. It was ranked best on the day by two of the tasters and was among another’s favourites, whereas two on the panel of five were leaning in favour of the Ken Forrester Chenin Blanc 2005 when it came down to choosing one or another.
Explained Michael Fridjhon, chairman of the judges: “In the final line-up of eight, the quality was incredibly even, with only nuances separating the wines. What polarised the panel was essentially subjective in nature and related to stylistic preferences. With quality a given among the final two, the only way to break the deadlock was for stylistic preferences to come into play. In 2005 a blockbuster; in 2006 something more arthouse, to put it in movie parlance.”
The move to create a crisp, delicate, elegant wine was deliberate, says winemaker Visser. “People in the industry had been criticising the Challenge for rewarding heavier wines, so I made my wine in a drier, more elegant French style, but with a definite South African fruit focus.”
The judges’ tasting notes: “Nose is shy with a hint of developed character. Palate is medium-bodied and well balanced. Delicate lime fruit, no obvious oak and fresh acid. Also honey and some leesy notes. Elegant and understated, it shows plenty of complexity, good ageing potential. Drink now or over five years.”
Wine lovers will be able to sample a selection of the top wines from this Chenin Blanc Challenge at public tastings to be held in Cape Town and Johannesburg on 27 February and 3 March respectively. Tickets are R100 per person and can be booked by telephoning 0860 100 204 or emailing smart@rsp.co.za.
Full details of the Chenin Blanc tasting can be found in the February issue of WINE magazine or on the WINE website, www.winemag.co.za.